Frequently Asked Questions
Metal Grid (DMG)
The largest advantage of a roll formed panel is that it has continuous ledges. Not only they add to rigidity but also allowed us to create “tong and groove” locking system for easy installation. We also install linear area of adhesive holes. Those allow adhesive to sip through them and bridge any oil canning that commonly occurs when fastening sheet metal. You will also find punch outs for the mortar to lock in to it.
This is the system of choice for interior applications and it remains the best selling product for exteriors.
It will depend on the brick type and thickness. It’s usually about 7 lbs per square foot.
Metal Panels can be installed directly over drywall but shouldn’t be fasten to it. Fasteners should be driven directly to the studs.
The grid has an interlocking top and bottom edge to help maintain level. Always check for level after installing a number of rows. Always offset vertical grid joints and leave 1/8” between joints. Figure brick to extend pass grid by 1/2” at grid ends. Notch ledges and bend the grid to adopt to outside corners. Use one fastener for each brick raw every 16”
Applications that require corners: Place adhesive on grid for one row of bricks to check layout. Always start with the corner brick, or a corner brick at-each corner if there are comers at both ends. Install bricks adjusting vertical joints for fit or cut brick as required. See reverse side of this sheet for cutting brick.
Applications that do not require corners; Install bricks in direction of arrows as shown in above illustration. Place adhesive on two rows of grid in the middle of the wall. Adjust vertical joints to fit area (3/8” to 1/2”) to fit wall space. Cut end bricks as needed. Install bricks horizontally than vertically. Draw a plumb vertical line every 48” to help maintain spacing.
NO. Since the panel is a roll formed there is no need for started channels and it adopts to outside corners. You might need some common flashings that are usually made to fit on the job.
…and fasteners of course.
We manufacture our panels in two lengths: 48” & 96”
Generally they accommodate 3 courses of brick but panel height will vary depending on the brick size.
Hammer, Drill, Metal Snips, Large Tube Caulking Gun, Mortar Bag, Joint Tool, Mortar Mixer
Generally speaking: Non-Corrosive preferably ribbed fasteners with sufficient penetration to firmly secure grid to wall.
Bricks can be cut using a diamond blade. Tile saws are often used. However, we find a splitter to be a very usefull tool.
There are few technics but we feel that the safest way is to apply 3 dabs of adhesive approximately the size of a dime in the back of the brick.
Place Brick It supplied mortar mix into a 5 gal. bucket and add cold water slowly until mortar is thoroughly mixed. Use a mortar mixer with 1/2” drill - slow speed, (approx 450-550 RPM) Mortar is properly mixed when it flows out of mortar bag. Try a small sample area.
Apply mortar into joints. Horizontal first, than vertical. Over fill joints with sufficient mortar to avoid leaving any voids. When mortar attains a firm consistency (check every 3 to 5 minutes) joints are ready for tooling.
Use the joint tool supplied with the mortar kit to strike joints. Strike the vertical joints first than horizontal joints. The joint tool is to insure that the depth of the mortar joint does not exceed 1/8th of an inch below the face of the brick. Press the tool against the joint at a 45 degree angle and strike joint. This will fill and seal the mortar to the edges of the brick. Joints will have a con- cave finish. Fill any voids.
DO NOT MORTAR JOINTS WHEN DAY & NIGHT TIME TEMPERATURES ARE BELOW
40 DEGREES F.
We do not recommend that technique because most of the bricks can not be cleaned off in a similar way to the tile. Mortar simply doesn’t come off the face and might leave a permanent stain on the face of the brick. However, that might be your desired finish…? Please test your idea techniques on the sample panels and not on a main wall. Below it a picture of a project using a sponge on one of our Sand-Face bricks. We thought it was a mistake but you decide…
Always anchor grid to substrate securely with adequate fasteners. Concrete and masonry walls require fasteners and adhesive on rear of metal grid.
Always use a waterproof covering to protect wood substrates before installing gird.
Always stagger grid vertical joints. Leave minimum 1/8” space between joints and 1/2” at ends.
Always allow at least 24 hours for adhesive to dry before mortaring joints.
Always use CLEAN COLD water to mix mortar. Flush hoses especially during warm weather.
Always slightly dampen bricks before mortaring. Especially during hot weather.
In our VIDEO section you can find three-part detailed video. You might find it a bit long and perhaps outdated but its time well spent. The gentleman in that video is Brick-It’s inventor. He speaks from his heart, and for sentimental reasons we don’t have a heart to replace it Please click here and see it for yourself.