Brick it® Knowledge Center

The DMG Panel System offers several key features that make installation faster, cleaner, and more reliable:

• Continuous Ledges: The roll-formed design provides continuous horizontal ledges, which add structural rigidity and support.
• Tongue-and-Groove Locking System: These interlocking edges make alignment simple and ensure consistent spacing between panels.
• Adhesive Holes: A linear pattern of perforated holes allows adhesive to bridge through the panel, helping to counteract oil canning, a common issue with sheet metal.
• Mortar Lock Punch-Outs: Strategically placed openings allow mortar to key into the panel, improving bond strength and stability.
• Precision Brick Alignment: The system ensures proper brick spacing and alignment every time, reducing layout errors and speeding up installation.

View DMG System Page.

The DMG Panel System is primarily the system of choice for interior applications, thanks to its ease of use and clean finish. However, it can also be used on exterior walls when properly installed over suitable substrates and moisture barriers.

That said, for exterior installations, we typically recommend our MCS Panel System, which includes enhanced moisture management features specifically designed for outdoor environments.

Yes, the DMG System panels can be installed over drywall, but the fasteners must penetrate directly into the studs behind the drywall. Drywall alone does not have the structural capacity to support the system.

Always ensure fasteners are properly aligned with the framing members to provide a secure and code-compliant installation.

The DMG (Designer Metal Grid) system uses a metal panel that is exceptionally thin—approximately 0.016"—and does not meaningfully contribute to the total system thickness. In most cases, the overall projection is determined solely by the thickness of the brick itself.

You can find exact brick dimensions on each product page under the Shapes & Sizes tab.

The total weight of the installed DMG System, including thin brick and mortar, typically averages around 7 lbs per square foot. The exact weight may vary slightly depending on the brick type and thickness used in your project.

This lightweight nature makes the system suitable for a wide range of applications, including interior walls and retrofits.

Yes, the Brick It Panel System is compatible with other manufacturers’ thin brick, as long as the brick conforms to a standard U.S. size. The most important factor is the brick face height, which must match the panel spacing to ensure proper fit and alignment.

We recommend checking your brick dimensions and comparing them with our panel sizing chart before ordering.

Fastening the panel correctly is essential for a secure and aligned installation. Follow these key guidelines:

• The metal grid features an interlocking top and bottom edge to help maintain level placement.
• Always check the level periodically after installing several rows.
• Panels should be installed so the brick extends 1/2” past the grid at the ends.
• Notch and bend the panel as needed to wrap around outside corners.
• Use one fastener per brick row every 16” horizontally (aligned with studs or structural substrate).

Yes. The Brick It Panel System is approved in Miami-Dade County under the 2014 Florida Building Code. While this code version is still accepted, Brick It is actively working on obtaining updated approvals under newer code versions.

To locate the official approval:

• Visit the Florida DBPR Product Approval Search.
• Under "Code Version," select 2014.
• In the "FL# (Product Approval Number)" field, enter: 14427
• Click Search to view approval details.

We will update our documentation once the new approvals are finalized.

Installing bricks with our panel system is simple, efficient, and designed for clean, consistent results. Follow these basic steps:

• Apply Adhesive:
  Apply Brick It adhesive to the back of each brick either in vertical lines or in quarter-sized dabs.

• Test Layout:
  Begin by installing one row of bricks to check alignment and layout.

• Start with Corners:
  Always start with a corner brick—or with corner bricks at both ends of the wall, if applicable.

• Brick Placement:
  • For straight walls with no corners, install bricks following the direction of the arrows on the panel.
  • Adjust vertical joints as needed (between 3/8" and 1/2") to fit the wall area.
  • Cut end bricks to size where necessary.

• Work Horizontally First:
  Install horizontal rows first, followed by vertical joints.

• Use Alignment Marks:
  Draw a vertical plumb line every 48" to help maintain consistent spacing and alignment.
  More information here.

Our metal grid panels are designed to hold three courses of brick, which means the panel height will vary based on the brick face height. Panels are available in two standard lengths: 48" and 96".

• 48" panels are the most commonly used due to their ease of handling, transport, and installation.
• 96" panels are available by special order, but are more challenging to ship and do not necessarily speed up installation.

For more sizing information, please visit the product page by clicking here. 

Most thin brick installations require only basic masonry and tile tools, such as a trowel, mortar bag, level, jointing tool, and a saw or splitter for cutting bricks.

To make things even easier, our System Configurator displays the recommended tools for each specific step of your installation, based on your selected wall assembly and system components. We encourage you to use the configurator when quoting your project to ensure you have everything you need, including the correct tools and accessories.

We recommend using non-corrosive, preferably ribbed fasteners that provide sufficient penetration to securely anchor the metal grid panel to the substrate. The correct type of fastener will depend on the wall material (e.g., wood, steel, concrete, or masonry) and the specific system being installed.

Using the right fasteners is critical to ensure the long-term performance and stability of your thin brick installation.

You can view our recommended fasteners and purchase options by clicking here.

Follow these steps to properly mix and apply mortar for thin brick joints:

• Mixing the Mortar:
  • Empty the entire contents of the 40 lb Brick It mortar mix into a 5-gallon bucket.
  • If you've ordered a colored mortar, add the full contents of the accompanying 1.5 lb colorant pack to the same bucket.
  • Slowly add clean, cold water while mixing with a 1/2" drill and mortar paddle at low speed (450–550 RPM) until the mixture reaches a smooth, workable consistency.
  • The mortar is properly mixed when it flows easily from a mortar bag.

• Application:
  • Load the mortar into a mortar bag and apply it to the horizontal joints first, followed by the vertical joints.
  • Always overfill joints slightly to ensure there are no air pockets or voids.

• Tooling the Joints:
  • Begin checking mortar firmness every 3–5 minutes. Once it reaches a firm but workable consistency, it's ready for tooling.
  • Use the joint tool provided in your kit to strike the vertical joints first, then the horizontal ones.
  • Hold the tool at a 45° angle and strike the joint to compress and seal the mortar against the brick edges.
  • Maintain no more than 1/8” recess from the brick face for proper finish.
  • The result will be a concave joint finish. Fill any visible voids as needed.

• Temperature Warning:
  • Do not apply mortar when daytime or nighttime temperatures are expected to fall below 40°F, as this can compromise the curing process.

We do not recommend using a sponge-finish technique for brick joints, as it is commonly done with tile. Unlike glazed tile, most brick surfaces are porous and textured, making it difficult to clean mortar off the face without leaving permanent stains or residue.

That said, if a slightly smeared or weathered appearance is part of your intended aesthetic, this technique might help achieve that look. In any case, we strongly advise testing your method on a sample panel before applying it to the main wall.

• Secure Anchoring: Always anchor the metal grid securely to the substrate using appropriate fasteners. For concrete and masonry walls, use both mechanical fasteners and adhesive on the back of the grid for proper adhesion.
• Waterproof Protection: Apply a waterproof membrane or approved weather barrier over all exterior substrates before installing the grid system.
• Panel Spacing:
  • Stagger vertical joints of the grid for better structural integrity.
  • Leave a minimum 1/8" gap between panel joints.
  • Stop the metal panel 1/2" short of edges and terminations to allow for movement and finish detailing.

• Adhesive Cure Time: Allow at least 24 hours for the adhesive to cure before proceeding with mortaring.
• Mortar Mixing:
  • Use only clean, cold water, especially in warm weather.
  • Always flush hoses before use to remove any contaminants.

• Brick Preparation:
  • Slightly dampen bricks before applying mortar, particularly during hot or dry conditions, to prevent premature moisture loss from the mortar.

The drainage mat plays a critical role in managing moisture behind thin brick veneer. Made from high-impact materials, it allows for the rapid exit of water that brick naturally absorbs, promoting continuous airflow between the veneer and the structural wall. This helps prevent moisture buildup, mold, and long-term damage to the building envelope.

Although we are not a manufacturer of moisture barriers and cannot recommend a specific brand, we can provide some general guidance based on industry standards. Most professionals now recommend using two layers of moisture protection behind thin brick veneer. This can include:

• Two layers of building paper.
• A combination of one roll-on applied membrane and one sheet-applied layer.
• Pre-bonded 2-ply papers, which unroll together for easier installation.

It’s important to note that brick and mortar are not waterproof—your moisture barrier is the critical line of defense against water intrusion. For this reason, we strongly advise consulting your project architect or building envelope consultant to select the appropriate system.

For moisture control accessories offered through Brick It, click here.

The rectangular holes in our panels serve two important functions:

• Water Drainage – Certain holes are specifically designed to allow moisture to escape from behind the brick veneer, helping to prevent water accumulation and potential damage.
• Oil Canning Control – Other holes are strategically placed to help bridge and minimize oil canning, a visual distortion that can occur in flat metal surfaces.

During product development and testing, we discovered that round holes are less effective at drainage, as water tends to flow around them, especially when punched from the back, which creates a subtle burr that deflects water. To address this, we intentionally designed rectangular holes and adjusted the punch direction, improving both drainage and performance.

Yes. We offer a detailed three-part installation video on our YouTube channel. While the video may feel a bit long or dated, it remains a valuable resource. It features Brick-It’s original inventor, who shares the installation process with genuine passion and first-hand insight.

Though we’ve considered updating it, we’ve chosen to keep it live for both sentimental value and its instructional clarity. We encourage you to watch—it’s time well spent. 

Part #1 is attached, and for parts two & three, click here.

Conventional thin brick installation systems are generally slower and more labor-intensive. On average, a skilled installer using a conventional system can set approximately 250 bricks per day. In contrast, the same installer can install around 1,200 bricks per day using one of our metal panel systems (DMG or MCS), making them significantly more efficient.

Thin-set systems are sometimes used for small interior applications—such as kitchen backsplashes or concrete stoops—typically up to 100 square feet in size. Thick-set systems, while slightly lower in material cost, require extensive labor and are rarely used due to their higher total project cost.

Our metal grid systems offer a modern, cost-effective, and time-saving alternative to traditional methods—ideal for both commercial and residential applications.

When installing thin brick panel systems, it is important to allow for thermal expansion and contraction by leaving approximately a 1/4" gap between panels. Based on over 30 years of industry experience, we have not observed issues related to thermal movement when panels are installed correctly. For additional flexibility, we recommend using our hybrid thin brick adhesive. Once cured, it remains permanently flexible and does not harden, accommodating slight movements without compromising bond integrity.

Thin brick veneers can experience differential movement as bricks expand and substrates shrink. To avoid cracking or system failure, properly placed movement joints are critical. These joints allow for natural expansion, contraction, and structural movement.

Placement Guidelines:

• Maximum spacing: 18 feet (5.5 m) vertically or horizontally
• Maximum area between joints: 144 sq. ft. (13.4 m²)
• Preferably square zones with a maximum 2½:1 length-to-height ratio
• Align joints with substrate joints when applied over concrete or masonry
• On framed walls, veneer joints don’t need to align with sheathing joints
  
  Construction Notes:
• Joints must extend fully through the veneer to the substrate
• Use a compressible filler during mortar placement to keep joints clear
• Apply backer rod and sealant at the surface to block moisture
• Minimum joint width: ⅜ inch (10 mm)
• Mesh or lath reinforcement should stop at joints and not bridge across
  
  Proper movement joint design and execution are essential for system longevity and should follow project-specific architectural and engineering requirements.

Technically, installations over plywood and concrete should be treated as two separate systems, divided by a properly placed caulk joint to allow for differential movement. In residential or smaller-scale applications, some customers choose to take an educated risk by treating the area as a single installation — omitting the caulk joint for aesthetic reasons. While this approach is common, it is done at the customer’s discretion. Please note that Brick It cannot assume responsibility for any resulting issues, even though the risk of failure may be minimal.

To achieve a curved wall, various brick patterns may be used.
A running bond is a common starting point, but if the layout appears too "choppy," switching to a header or soldier course may provide a smoother appearance. The choice ultimately depends on the designer's intent and aesthetic preference.

Determining the minimum achievable radius depends on the brick size and selected pattern. As a general guideline, shorter bricks allow for tighter curves. For greater accuracy and visualization, designers and architects are encouraged to model the wall in CAD using actual brick and curve dimensions.

For additional Information click here.

The Moisture Control System (MCS) combines all the features of our Metal Grid System with integrated moisture management capabilities. Its patented design (U.S. Patent #8,141,310) actively redirects water from the front of the panel to the back every 8 inches using strategically placed offset weep holes.

This approach helps protect the wall assembly by promoting drainage and ventilation behind the brick veneer, making it the only patented moisture control system specifically designed for thin brick installation.

The MCS (Moisture Control System) panel is extremely thin—approximately 0.016"—and does not significantly affect the overall system thickness. To calculate the total projection from the existing wall, simply add the thickness of the brick and the drainage mat.

Brick dimensions can be found on each product page under the Shapes & Sizes tab. The combined thickness of these components will give you an accurate estimate of how far the system will extend off the wall.

Yes, the MCS System is slightly more expensive than the DMG System. This is due to its additional components, such as the integrated drainage mat, and the use of a higher-grade galvanized coating for enhanced durability and moisture management.

Think of it as an insurance policy for your wall assembly, an added layer of protection that may be well worth the investment, depending on your project's exposure and performance goals. The best way to evaluate the cost difference is to request a quote and compare the full system pricing. Ultimately, the choice is yours.

Yes, the Brick It Panel System is compatible with other manufacturers’ thin brick, as long as the brick conforms to a standard U.S. size. The most important factor is the brick face height, which must match the panel spacing to ensure proper fit and alignment.

We recommend checking your brick dimensions and comparing them with our panel sizing chart before ordering.

Fastening the panel correctly is essential for a secure and aligned installation. Follow these key guidelines:

• The metal grid features an interlocking top and bottom edge to help maintain level placement.
• Always check the level periodically after installing several rows.
• Panels should be installed so the brick extends 1/2” past the grid at the ends.
• Notch and bend the panel as needed to wrap around outside corners.
• Use one fastener per brick row every 16” horizontally (aligned with studs or structural substrate).

Yes. The Brick It Panel System is approved in Miami-Dade County under the 2014 Florida Building Code. While this code version is still accepted, Brick It is actively working on obtaining updated approvals under newer code versions.

To locate the official approval:

• Visit the Florida DBPR Product Approval Search.
• Under "Code Version," select 2014.
• In the "FL# (Product Approval Number)" field, enter: 14427
• Click Search to view approval details.

We will update our documentation once the new approvals are finalized.

Installing bricks with our panel system is simple, efficient, and designed for clean, consistent results. Follow these basic steps:

• Apply Adhesive:
  Apply Brick It adhesive to the back of each brick either in vertical lines or in quarter-sized dabs.

• Test Layout:
  Begin by installing one row of bricks to check alignment and layout.

• Start with Corners:
  Always start with a corner brick—or with corner bricks at both ends of the wall, if applicable.

• Brick Placement:
  • For straight walls with no corners, install bricks following the direction of the arrows on the panel.
  • Adjust vertical joints as needed (between 3/8" and 1/2") to fit the wall area.
  • Cut end bricks to size where necessary.

• Work Horizontally First:
  Install horizontal rows first, followed by vertical joints.

• Use Alignment Marks:
  Draw a vertical plumb line every 48" to help maintain consistent spacing and alignment.
  More information here.

Our metal grid panels are designed to hold three courses of brick, which means the panel height will vary based on the brick face height. Panels are available in two standard lengths: 48" and 96".

• 48" panels are the most commonly used due to their ease of handling, transport, and installation.
• 96" panels are available by special order, but are more challenging to ship and do not necessarily speed up installation.

For more sizing information, please visit the product page by clicking here. 

Most thin brick installations require only basic masonry and tile tools, such as a trowel, mortar bag, level, jointing tool, and a saw or splitter for cutting bricks.

To make things even easier, our System Configurator displays the recommended tools for each specific step of your installation, based on your selected wall assembly and system components. We encourage you to use the configurator when quoting your project to ensure you have everything you need, including the correct tools and accessories.

We recommend using non-corrosive, preferably ribbed fasteners that provide sufficient penetration to securely anchor the metal grid panel to the substrate. The correct type of fastener will depend on the wall material (e.g., wood, steel, concrete, or masonry) and the specific system being installed.

Using the right fasteners is critical to ensure the long-term performance and stability of your thin brick installation.

You can view our recommended fasteners and purchase options by clicking here.

Follow these steps to properly mix and apply mortar for thin brick joints:

• Mixing the Mortar:
  • Empty the entire contents of the 40 lb Brick It mortar mix into a 5-gallon bucket.
  • If you've ordered a colored mortar, add the full contents of the accompanying 1.5 lb colorant pack to the same bucket.
  • Slowly add clean, cold water while mixing with a 1/2" drill and mortar paddle at low speed (450–550 RPM) until the mixture reaches a smooth, workable consistency.
  • The mortar is properly mixed when it flows easily from a mortar bag.

• Application:
  • Load the mortar into a mortar bag and apply it to the horizontal joints first, followed by the vertical joints.
  • Always overfill joints slightly to ensure there are no air pockets or voids.

• Tooling the Joints:
  • Begin checking mortar firmness every 3–5 minutes. Once it reaches a firm but workable consistency, it's ready for tooling.
  • Use the joint tool provided in your kit to strike the vertical joints first, then the horizontal ones.
  • Hold the tool at a 45° angle and strike the joint to compress and seal the mortar against the brick edges.
  • Maintain no more than 1/8” recess from the brick face for proper finish.
  • The result will be a concave joint finish. Fill any visible voids as needed.

• Temperature Warning:
  • Do not apply mortar when daytime or nighttime temperatures are expected to fall below 40°F, as this can compromise the curing process.

We do not recommend using a sponge-finish technique for brick joints, as it is commonly done with tile. Unlike glazed tile, most brick surfaces are porous and textured, making it difficult to clean mortar off the face without leaving permanent stains or residue.

That said, if a slightly smeared or weathered appearance is part of your intended aesthetic, this technique might help achieve that look. In any case, we strongly advise testing your method on a sample panel before applying it to the main wall.

• Secure Anchoring: Always anchor the metal grid securely to the substrate using appropriate fasteners. For concrete and masonry walls, use both mechanical fasteners and adhesive on the back of the grid for proper adhesion.
• Waterproof Protection: Apply a waterproof membrane or approved weather barrier over all exterior substrates before installing the grid system.
• Panel Spacing:
  • Stagger vertical joints of the grid for better structural integrity.
  • Leave a minimum 1/8" gap between panel joints.
  • Stop the metal panel 1/2" short of edges and terminations to allow for movement and finish detailing.

• Adhesive Cure Time: Allow at least 24 hours for the adhesive to cure before proceeding with mortaring.
• Mortar Mixing:
  • Use only clean, cold water, especially in warm weather.
  • Always flush hoses before use to remove any contaminants.

• Brick Preparation:
  • Slightly dampen bricks before applying mortar, particularly during hot or dry conditions, to prevent premature moisture loss from the mortar.

The drainage mat plays a critical role in managing moisture behind thin brick veneer. Made from high-impact materials, it allows for the rapid exit of water that brick naturally absorbs, promoting continuous airflow between the veneer and the structural wall. This helps prevent moisture buildup, mold, and long-term damage to the building envelope.

Although we are not a manufacturer of moisture barriers and cannot recommend a specific brand, we can provide some general guidance based on industry standards. Most professionals now recommend using two layers of moisture protection behind thin brick veneer. This can include:

• Two layers of building paper.
• A combination of one roll-on applied membrane and one sheet-applied layer.
• Pre-bonded 2-ply papers, which unroll together for easier installation.

It’s important to note that brick and mortar are not waterproof—your moisture barrier is the critical line of defense against water intrusion. For this reason, we strongly advise consulting your project architect or building envelope consultant to select the appropriate system.

For moisture control accessories offered through Brick It, click here.

The rectangular holes in our panels serve two important functions:

• Water Drainage – Certain holes are specifically designed to allow moisture to escape from behind the brick veneer, helping to prevent water accumulation and potential damage.
• Oil Canning Control – Other holes are strategically placed to help bridge and minimize oil canning, a visual distortion that can occur in flat metal surfaces.

During product development and testing, we discovered that round holes are less effective at drainage, as water tends to flow around them, especially when punched from the back, which creates a subtle burr that deflects water. To address this, we intentionally designed rectangular holes and adjusted the punch direction, improving both drainage and performance.

Conventional thin brick installation systems are generally slower and more labor-intensive. On average, a skilled installer using a conventional system can set approximately 250 bricks per day. In contrast, the same installer can install around 1,200 bricks per day using one of our metal panel systems (DMG or MCS), making them significantly more efficient.

Thin-set systems are sometimes used for small interior applications—such as kitchen backsplashes or concrete stoops—typically up to 100 square feet in size. Thick-set systems, while slightly lower in material cost, require extensive labor and are rarely used due to their higher total project cost.

Our metal grid systems offer a modern, cost-effective, and time-saving alternative to traditional methods—ideal for both commercial and residential applications.

When installing thin brick panel systems, it is important to allow for thermal expansion and contraction by leaving approximately a 1/4" gap between panels. Based on over 30 years of industry experience, we have not observed issues related to thermal movement when panels are installed correctly. For additional flexibility, we recommend using our hybrid thin brick adhesive. Once cured, it remains permanently flexible and does not harden, accommodating slight movements without compromising bond integrity.

Thin brick veneers can experience differential movement as bricks expand and substrates shrink. To avoid cracking or system failure, properly placed movement joints are critical. These joints allow for natural expansion, contraction, and structural movement.

Placement Guidelines:

• Maximum spacing: 18 feet (5.5 m) vertically or horizontally
• Maximum area between joints: 144 sq. ft. (13.4 m²)
• Preferably square zones with a maximum 2½:1 length-to-height ratio
• Align joints with substrate joints when applied over concrete or masonry
• On framed walls, veneer joints don’t need to align with sheathing joints
  
  Construction Notes:
• Joints must extend fully through the veneer to the substrate
• Use a compressible filler during mortar placement to keep joints clear
• Apply backer rod and sealant at the surface to block moisture
• Minimum joint width: ⅜ inch (10 mm)
• Mesh or lath reinforcement should stop at joints and not bridge across
  
  Proper movement joint design and execution are essential for system longevity and should follow project-specific architectural and engineering requirements.

Technically, installations over plywood and concrete should be treated as two separate systems, divided by a properly placed caulk joint to allow for differential movement. In residential or smaller-scale applications, some customers choose to take an educated risk by treating the area as a single installation — omitting the caulk joint for aesthetic reasons. While this approach is common, it is done at the customer’s discretion. Please note that Brick It cannot assume responsibility for any resulting issues, even though the risk of failure may be minimal.

To achieve a curved wall, various brick patterns may be used.
A running bond is a common starting point, but if the layout appears too "choppy," switching to a header or soldier course may provide a smoother appearance. The choice ultimately depends on the designer's intent and aesthetic preference.

Determining the minimum achievable radius depends on the brick size and selected pattern. As a general guideline, shorter bricks allow for tighter curves. For greater accuracy and visualization, designers and architects are encouraged to model the wall in CAD using actual brick and curve dimensions.

For additional Information click here.

Our Continuous Insulation (CI) System is a patented solution designed to meet modern energy code requirements by integrating extruded polystyrene insulation directly into the wall assembly. This system creates a complete thermal break between the interior and exterior of the building, significantly improving energy efficiency and reducing thermal bridging.

It’s an ideal choice for projects prioritizing performance, code compliance, and long-term energy savings.

Foam insulation has no structural value, and fastening through it does not provide a secure or code-compliant attachment. If you attempt to anchor the DMG or MCS panel directly to the studs through the foam, you would essentially be cantilevering the system by the foam's thickness, creating an unsupported gap between the panel and the structural substrate.

This approach compromises stability and may result in failure over time. To date, we have not encountered an engineer who would approve such a method. For a secure and properly engineered installation, the panel system must be anchored directly to a solid structural surface, such as strapping, sheathing, or framing, not through foam alone.

Thin brick offers minimal insulation on its own. Its R-value (a measure of thermal resistance) is very low—typically around R-0.05 to R-0.1 for a standard ½-inch thick brick. For comparison:

• Thin brick (½"): ~R-0.05 to R-0.1
• Standard full-size clay brick (approx. 2.75"): ~R-0.2 per inch, or about R-0.5 to R-0.6 total

While thin brick provides the appearance and durability of real masonry, it is not intended to act as an insulator. If energy efficiency or code compliance is a concern, you should incorporate dedicated insulation materials (such as rigid foam or continuous insulation systems) into your wall assembly.

For improved thermal performance, consider using our Continuous Insulation System (CI), which combines thin brick with integrated foam insulation and proper fastening methods.

Yes, the Brick It Panel System is compatible with other manufacturers’ thin brick, as long as the brick conforms to a standard U.S. size. The most important factor is the brick face height, which must match the panel spacing to ensure proper fit and alignment.

We recommend checking your brick dimensions and comparing them with our panel sizing chart before ordering.

Our metal grid panels are designed to hold three courses of brick, which means the panel height will vary based on the brick face height. Panels are available in two standard lengths: 48" and 96".

• 48" panels are the most commonly used due to their ease of handling, transport, and installation.
• 96" panels are available by special order, but are more challenging to ship and do not necessarily speed up installation.

For more sizing information, please visit the product page by clicking here. 

Most thin brick installations require only basic masonry and tile tools, such as a trowel, mortar bag, level, jointing tool, and a saw or splitter for cutting bricks.

To make things even easier, our System Configurator displays the recommended tools for each specific step of your installation, based on your selected wall assembly and system components. We encourage you to use the configurator when quoting your project to ensure you have everything you need, including the correct tools and accessories.

We recommend using non-corrosive, preferably ribbed fasteners that provide sufficient penetration to securely anchor the metal grid panel to the substrate. The correct type of fastener will depend on the wall material (e.g., wood, steel, concrete, or masonry) and the specific system being installed.

Using the right fasteners is critical to ensure the long-term performance and stability of your thin brick installation.

You can view our recommended fasteners and purchase options by clicking here.

Follow these steps to properly mix and apply mortar for thin brick joints:

• Mixing the Mortar:
  • Empty the entire contents of the 40 lb Brick It mortar mix into a 5-gallon bucket.
  • If you've ordered a colored mortar, add the full contents of the accompanying 1.5 lb colorant pack to the same bucket.
  • Slowly add clean, cold water while mixing with a 1/2" drill and mortar paddle at low speed (450–550 RPM) until the mixture reaches a smooth, workable consistency.
  • The mortar is properly mixed when it flows easily from a mortar bag.

• Application:
  • Load the mortar into a mortar bag and apply it to the horizontal joints first, followed by the vertical joints.
  • Always overfill joints slightly to ensure there are no air pockets or voids.

• Tooling the Joints:
  • Begin checking mortar firmness every 3–5 minutes. Once it reaches a firm but workable consistency, it's ready for tooling.
  • Use the joint tool provided in your kit to strike the vertical joints first, then the horizontal ones.
  • Hold the tool at a 45° angle and strike the joint to compress and seal the mortar against the brick edges.
  • Maintain no more than 1/8” recess from the brick face for proper finish.
  • The result will be a concave joint finish. Fill any visible voids as needed.

• Temperature Warning:
  • Do not apply mortar when daytime or nighttime temperatures are expected to fall below 40°F, as this can compromise the curing process.

We do not recommend using a sponge-finish technique for brick joints, as it is commonly done with tile. Unlike glazed tile, most brick surfaces are porous and textured, making it difficult to clean mortar off the face without leaving permanent stains or residue.

That said, if a slightly smeared or weathered appearance is part of your intended aesthetic, this technique might help achieve that look. In any case, we strongly advise testing your method on a sample panel before applying it to the main wall.

Although we are not a manufacturer of moisture barriers and cannot recommend a specific brand, we can provide some general guidance based on industry standards. Most professionals now recommend using two layers of moisture protection behind thin brick veneer. This can include:

• Two layers of building paper.
• A combination of one roll-on applied membrane and one sheet-applied layer.
• Pre-bonded 2-ply papers, which unroll together for easier installation.

It’s important to note that brick and mortar are not waterproof—your moisture barrier is the critical line of defense against water intrusion. For this reason, we strongly advise consulting your project architect or building envelope consultant to select the appropriate system.

For moisture control accessories offered through Brick It, click here.

The rectangular holes in our panels serve two important functions:

• Water Drainage – Certain holes are specifically designed to allow moisture to escape from behind the brick veneer, helping to prevent water accumulation and potential damage.
• Oil Canning Control – Other holes are strategically placed to help bridge and minimize oil canning, a visual distortion that can occur in flat metal surfaces.

During product development and testing, we discovered that round holes are less effective at drainage, as water tends to flow around them, especially when punched from the back, which creates a subtle burr that deflects water. To address this, we intentionally designed rectangular holes and adjusted the punch direction, improving both drainage and performance.

The CI (Continuous Insulation) System is most commonly used in commercial construction, particularly on walls built with steel studs and gypsum sheathing. It’s ideal for projects requiring improved thermal performance while maintaining the durability and aesthetics of thin brick veneer.

While screws can introduce minor thermal transmittance, our system is designed to maintain a 100% thermal break. This is achieved by using a non-condensating eyelet (washer) in combination with a foam drainage mat, effectively isolating the fastener from direct contact with exterior surfaces.

– For product details on the eyelet, click here.

Yes, it can be used in residential applications; however, it is typically not required. Most lumber-framed residential walls that incorporate the latest insulation technologies already meet or exceed current energy codes without the need for an additional Continuous Insulation (CI) system.

That said, CI remains an option for homeowners or builders seeking enhanced energy efficiency, moisture control, or to meet specific design goals.

The CI System is engineered for strength and durability. When installed using our structural Batten Plates and specialized screws, it can support approximately 450 lbs per square foot in a worst-case scenario. In more typical installations—without additional strapping—the system can support up to 650 lbs per square foot.

For reference, a standard Brick It system installed over Batten Plates typically weighs around 7 lbs per square foot, which is well within the system’s load-bearing capacity.

These performance figures are based on internal testing and reflect a conservative safety margin for most building conditions.

If you purchase the foam insulation from us, it will come pre-notched every 16" on center to accommodate Batten Plate installation. To install, simply press the Batten Plate into the notched channel. If needed, you can gently tap it into place using a rubber mallet for easier alignment.

This pre-notched feature saves time on-site and ensures proper placement for secure attachment.

While special framing is not required, we recommend adding horizontal strapping (every 16" on center) to the wall to simplify installation and ensure consistent fastening. This can be particularly helpful when installing Batten Plates.

To minimize added cost, consider applying strapping specifically at inside and outside corners, where secure attachment is most critical. This targeted reinforcement will help ensure a smooth and durable installation of the CI system.

The metal panel component of the CI System is extremely thin—approximately 0.016"—and does not significantly contribute to the overall wall thickness. To determine the full projection of the system from the existing wall, you’ll need to add the thickness of the following components:

The thin brick (dimensions available on each product page under the Shapes & Sizes tab)
Drainage Matt
Insulation
Any additional layers specified in your wall assembly

For accurate planning, it's best to reference each element in your project specification and sum its individual thicknesses.

When installing thin brick panel systems, it is important to allow for thermal expansion and contraction by leaving approximately a 1/4" gap between panels. Based on over 30 years of industry experience, we have not observed issues related to thermal movement when panels are installed correctly. For additional flexibility, we recommend using our hybrid thin brick adhesive. Once cured, it remains permanently flexible and does not harden, accommodating slight movements without compromising bond integrity.

Thin brick veneers can experience differential movement as bricks expand and substrates shrink. To avoid cracking or system failure, properly placed movement joints are critical. These joints allow for natural expansion, contraction, and structural movement.

Placement Guidelines:

• Maximum spacing: 18 feet (5.5 m) vertically or horizontally
• Maximum area between joints: 144 sq. ft. (13.4 m²)
• Preferably square zones with a maximum 2½:1 length-to-height ratio
• Align joints with substrate joints when applied over concrete or masonry
• On framed walls, veneer joints don’t need to align with sheathing joints
  
  Construction Notes:
• Joints must extend fully through the veneer to the substrate
• Use a compressible filler during mortar placement to keep joints clear
• Apply backer rod and sealant at the surface to block moisture
• Minimum joint width: ⅜ inch (10 mm)
• Mesh or lath reinforcement should stop at joints and not bridge across
  
  Proper movement joint design and execution are essential for system longevity and should follow project-specific architectural and engineering requirements.

A Batten Plate is a structural, 16-gauge galvanized steel L-shaped bracket designed with pre-punched screw holes spaced 16 inches on center. When installed with specialty fasteners, it provides a secure mounting surface for Brick It Metal Grids, lath for Thickset systems, cement stucco, and other siding or cladding materials.

For more information on Batten Plate applications, click here.

Technically, installations over plywood and concrete should be treated as two separate systems, divided by a properly placed caulk joint to allow for differential movement. In residential or smaller-scale applications, some customers choose to take an educated risk by treating the area as a single installation — omitting the caulk joint for aesthetic reasons. While this approach is common, it is done at the customer’s discretion. Please note that Brick It cannot assume responsibility for any resulting issues, even though the risk of failure may be minimal.

Most thin brick installations require only basic masonry and tile tools, such as a trowel, mortar bag, level, jointing tool, and a saw or splitter for cutting bricks.

To make things even easier, our System Configurator displays the recommended tools for each specific step of your installation, based on your selected wall assembly and system components. We encourage you to use the configurator when quoting your project to ensure you have everything you need, including the correct tools and accessories.

We recommend using non-corrosive, preferably ribbed fasteners that provide sufficient penetration to securely anchor the metal grid panel to the substrate. The correct type of fastener will depend on the wall material (e.g., wood, steel, concrete, or masonry) and the specific system being installed.

Using the right fasteners is critical to ensure the long-term performance and stability of your thin brick installation.

You can view our recommended fasteners and purchase options by clicking here.

Follow these steps to properly mix and apply mortar for thin brick joints:

• Mixing the Mortar:
  • Empty the entire contents of the 40 lb Brick It mortar mix into a 5-gallon bucket.
  • If you've ordered a colored mortar, add the full contents of the accompanying 1.5 lb colorant pack to the same bucket.
  • Slowly add clean, cold water while mixing with a 1/2" drill and mortar paddle at low speed (450–550 RPM) until the mixture reaches a smooth, workable consistency.
  • The mortar is properly mixed when it flows easily from a mortar bag.

• Application:
  • Load the mortar into a mortar bag and apply it to the horizontal joints first, followed by the vertical joints.
  • Always overfill joints slightly to ensure there are no air pockets or voids.

• Tooling the Joints:
  • Begin checking mortar firmness every 3–5 minutes. Once it reaches a firm but workable consistency, it's ready for tooling.
  • Use the joint tool provided in your kit to strike the vertical joints first, then the horizontal ones.
  • Hold the tool at a 45° angle and strike the joint to compress and seal the mortar against the brick edges.
  • Maintain no more than 1/8” recess from the brick face for proper finish.
  • The result will be a concave joint finish. Fill any visible voids as needed.

• Temperature Warning:
  • Do not apply mortar when daytime or nighttime temperatures are expected to fall below 40°F, as this can compromise the curing process.

We do not recommend using a sponge-finish technique for brick joints, as it is commonly done with tile. Unlike glazed tile, most brick surfaces are porous and textured, making it difficult to clean mortar off the face without leaving permanent stains or residue.

That said, if a slightly smeared or weathered appearance is part of your intended aesthetic, this technique might help achieve that look. In any case, we strongly advise testing your method on a sample panel before applying it to the main wall.

The drainage mat plays a critical role in managing moisture behind thin brick veneer. Made from high-impact materials, it allows for the rapid exit of water that brick naturally absorbs, promoting continuous airflow between the veneer and the structural wall. This helps prevent moisture buildup, mold, and long-term damage to the building envelope.

Although we are not a manufacturer of moisture barriers and cannot recommend a specific brand, we can provide some general guidance based on industry standards. Most professionals now recommend using two layers of moisture protection behind thin brick veneer. This can include:

• Two layers of building paper.
• A combination of one roll-on applied membrane and one sheet-applied layer.
• Pre-bonded 2-ply papers, which unroll together for easier installation.

It’s important to note that brick and mortar are not waterproof—your moisture barrier is the critical line of defense against water intrusion. For this reason, we strongly advise consulting your project architect or building envelope consultant to select the appropriate system.

For moisture control accessories offered through Brick It, click here.

Thin brick veneers can experience differential movement as bricks expand and substrates shrink. To avoid cracking or system failure, properly placed movement joints are critical. These joints allow for natural expansion, contraction, and structural movement.

Placement Guidelines:

• Maximum spacing: 18 feet (5.5 m) vertically or horizontally
• Maximum area between joints: 144 sq. ft. (13.4 m²)
• Preferably square zones with a maximum 2½:1 length-to-height ratio
• Align joints with substrate joints when applied over concrete or masonry
• On framed walls, veneer joints don’t need to align with sheathing joints
  
  Construction Notes:
• Joints must extend fully through the veneer to the substrate
• Use a compressible filler during mortar placement to keep joints clear
• Apply backer rod and sealant at the surface to block moisture
• Minimum joint width: ⅜ inch (10 mm)
• Mesh or lath reinforcement should stop at joints and not bridge across
  
  Proper movement joint design and execution are essential for system longevity and should follow project-specific architectural and engineering requirements.

Technically, installations over plywood and concrete should be treated as two separate systems, divided by a properly placed caulk joint to allow for differential movement. In residential or smaller-scale applications, some customers choose to take an educated risk by treating the area as a single installation — omitting the caulk joint for aesthetic reasons. While this approach is common, it is done at the customer’s discretion. Please note that Brick It cannot assume responsibility for any resulting issues, even though the risk of failure may be minimal.

Most thin brick installations require only basic masonry and tile tools, such as a trowel, mortar bag, level, jointing tool, and a saw or splitter for cutting bricks.

To make things even easier, our System Configurator displays the recommended tools for each specific step of your installation, based on your selected wall assembly and system components. We encourage you to use the configurator when quoting your project to ensure you have everything you need, including the correct tools and accessories.

We recommend using non-corrosive, preferably ribbed fasteners that provide sufficient penetration to securely anchor the metal grid panel to the substrate. The correct type of fastener will depend on the wall material (e.g., wood, steel, concrete, or masonry) and the specific system being installed.

Using the right fasteners is critical to ensure the long-term performance and stability of your thin brick installation.

You can view our recommended fasteners and purchase options by clicking here.

Follow these steps to properly mix and apply mortar for thin brick joints:

• Mixing the Mortar:
  • Empty the entire contents of the 40 lb Brick It mortar mix into a 5-gallon bucket.
  • If you've ordered a colored mortar, add the full contents of the accompanying 1.5 lb colorant pack to the same bucket.
  • Slowly add clean, cold water while mixing with a 1/2" drill and mortar paddle at low speed (450–550 RPM) until the mixture reaches a smooth, workable consistency.
  • The mortar is properly mixed when it flows easily from a mortar bag.

• Application:
  • Load the mortar into a mortar bag and apply it to the horizontal joints first, followed by the vertical joints.
  • Always overfill joints slightly to ensure there are no air pockets or voids.

• Tooling the Joints:
  • Begin checking mortar firmness every 3–5 minutes. Once it reaches a firm but workable consistency, it's ready for tooling.
  • Use the joint tool provided in your kit to strike the vertical joints first, then the horizontal ones.
  • Hold the tool at a 45° angle and strike the joint to compress and seal the mortar against the brick edges.
  • Maintain no more than 1/8” recess from the brick face for proper finish.
  • The result will be a concave joint finish. Fill any visible voids as needed.

• Temperature Warning:
  • Do not apply mortar when daytime or nighttime temperatures are expected to fall below 40°F, as this can compromise the curing process.

We do not recommend using a sponge-finish technique for brick joints, as it is commonly done with tile. Unlike glazed tile, most brick surfaces are porous and textured, making it difficult to clean mortar off the face without leaving permanent stains or residue.

That said, if a slightly smeared or weathered appearance is part of your intended aesthetic, this technique might help achieve that look. In any case, we strongly advise testing your method on a sample panel before applying it to the main wall.

Although we are not a manufacturer of moisture barriers and cannot recommend a specific brand, we can provide some general guidance based on industry standards. Most professionals now recommend using two layers of moisture protection behind thin brick veneer. This can include:

• Two layers of building paper.
• A combination of one roll-on applied membrane and one sheet-applied layer.
• Pre-bonded 2-ply papers, which unroll together for easier installation.

It’s important to note that brick and mortar are not waterproof—your moisture barrier is the critical line of defense against water intrusion. For this reason, we strongly advise consulting your project architect or building envelope consultant to select the appropriate system.

For moisture control accessories offered through Brick It, click here.

Yes, many of our thin bricks can be installed on exterior patios exposed to snow and weather. However, performance and appearance may vary depending on the brick type and installation method.

Brick Selection:

• Bricks in our Floor Brick category, especially wire-cut or tumbled options, are generally suitable for exterior use. Some bricks may age or weather differently, which can add a desired aesthetic for certain clients.

Installation Guidelines:

• Install over a concrete slab using a thin-set method (a non-proprietary tile installation technique)
• Do not use standard tile grouting methods — bricks typically do not clean as easily as tile and improper grouting may lead to poor results
• Always test your process on a sample panel before grouting the main area to confirm the desired finish and cleanability

For best results, follow industry standards and consult a qualified installer familiar with exterior thin brick applications.

Thin brick veneers can experience differential movement as bricks expand and substrates shrink. To avoid cracking or system failure, properly placed movement joints are critical. These joints allow for natural expansion, contraction, and structural movement.

Placement Guidelines:

• Maximum spacing: 18 feet (5.5 m) vertically or horizontally
• Maximum area between joints: 144 sq. ft. (13.4 m²)
• Preferably square zones with a maximum 2½:1 length-to-height ratio
• Align joints with substrate joints when applied over concrete or masonry
• On framed walls, veneer joints don’t need to align with sheathing joints
  
  Construction Notes:
• Joints must extend fully through the veneer to the substrate
• Use a compressible filler during mortar placement to keep joints clear
• Apply backer rod and sealant at the surface to block moisture
• Minimum joint width: ⅜ inch (10 mm)
• Mesh or lath reinforcement should stop at joints and not bridge across
  
  Proper movement joint design and execution are essential for system longevity and should follow project-specific architectural and engineering requirements.

Technically, installations over plywood and concrete should be treated as two separate systems, divided by a properly placed caulk joint to allow for differential movement. In residential or smaller-scale applications, some customers choose to take an educated risk by treating the area as a single installation — omitting the caulk joint for aesthetic reasons. While this approach is common, it is done at the customer’s discretion. Please note that Brick It cannot assume responsibility for any resulting issues, even though the risk of failure may be minimal.