You can also browse the topics below to find what you are looking for:

Designer Metal Grid System, DMG

What Thin Brick Sizes Are Available at Brick It?

Brick It offers thin brick in all standard industry sizes. The most popular is the Modular (MOD) size, with a face dimension of 2 1/4" x 7 5/8". Other sizes are also available to accommodate specific project requirements. When purchasing metal panel systems separately, it is important to confirm the brick height to ensure accurate panel compatibility.

I Was Installing Thin Brick and Now I Have Some Cement Smears on the Face. How Do I Clean It Off?

When installed cleanly and carefully, your thin brick veneer should require little to no cleaning. However, if you notice cement smears or residue, some bricks may benefit from a light rinse using a mild-strength cleaning solution.

Here are a few important tips:

  • Always follow the cleaning product manufacturer’s instructions carefully.
  • We offer several cleaning solutions that are compatible with thin brick surfaces.
  • For more advanced guidance, we recommend visiting www.prosoco.com, a trusted industry leader in masonry cleaning products.

Important Caution:
Before applying any chemical cleaner to your actual project, test it on a sample panel or a small, inconspicuous area. Many cleaning products are irreversible and may affect the appearance of the brick if not used properly.

Why Should I Use the Brick It System for Thin Brick Installation?

Installing thin brick veneers requires more than just the brick itself; it requires a complete, well-engineered system. The Brick It System provides all the necessary components to ensure a proper, code-compliant installation, whether for interior or exterior use.

By purchasing all materials directly from Brick It, you benefit from:

  • Convenience – Everything you need from one trusted source.
  • Compatibility – Products designed to work together for optimal performance.
  • Warranty Protection – A system-based warranty supported by a single manufacturer.
  • Single Source of Responsibility – One point of contact for technical support, guidance, and accountability.

Choosing the Brick It System ensures peace of mind and a successful thin brick installation.

Which System Should I Use?

The right system depends on your project needs, but here is a quick overview to help you decide:

  • Designer Metal Grid (DMG) System
    This is our most popular solution. It is the easiest to install, cost-effective, and ideal for both professionals and DIY users. It’s a great choice for most interior and basic exterior applications.
  • Moisture Control System (MCS)
    If moisture management is a concern, especially for exterior walls, the MCS system offers built-in drainage features and enhanced protection against water intrusion.
  • Continuous Insulation System (CI)
    This system is ideal when your project requires added thermal performance. It integrates foam insulation and a structural fastening method to help meet modern energy codes while still supporting thin brick installation.

Each system serves a specific purpose, so consider your climate, wall assembly, and performance goals when choosing.

Can a Person with Limited Construction Experience Handle the Installation, Like a Typical Homeowner?

Absolutely. Our metal grid system is designed to be user-friendly and efficient, making it accessible even to those with little or no construction background. Over the years, we have seen many homeowners and individuals with varying skill levels complete their own installations with great success.

Those who take on the project themselves often enjoy a strong sense of pride and accomplishment, along with a finished product that looks professionally installed. By carefully following the instructions and taking your time, this can be a very rewarding experience.

I’m a Skilled Contractor, Why Should I Use Brick-It’s Panel System?

The Brick-It Panel System offers significant benefits even for experienced contractors by enhancing strength, ease of installation, and most importantly, speed.

For comparison:

  • With conventional thin-set or thick-set methods, a skilled installer typically places 250 to 350 bricks per day.
  • Using the Brick-It metal grid system, that number jumps to 1,100 to 1,400 bricks per day—a 3 to 5× productivity increase.

Much of this output can be achieved with just one mechanic, supported by a small team of helpers, making the system extremely cost-effective. Faster installation means lower labor costs, quicker project turnaround, and more jobs completed with the same crew.

In short, it helps skilled professionals work smarter and more profitably, without compromising quality.

Do You Have Brick it Installers in My Area?

Brick It does not offer installation services and does not employ installers. While we likely have customers who have purchased our systems in your area, we cannot verify or endorse their work, as we haven’t seen their completed projects and cannot speak to their quality or professionalism.

We recommend hiring a trusted local contractor with experience in one of the following trades:

  • Stucco installation.
  • Carpentry.
  • Tile setting.
  • Masonry.
  • Or a qualified handyman.

Any skilled professional familiar with exterior finishes or panel systems should be able to install Brick It products successfully by following our provided installation guidelines.

What Type of Contractors Install Thin Brick?

The type of contractor best suited for your project will depend on its scope and setting. The following professionals are commonly capable of installing thin brick panel systems:

  • Stucco Contractors
  • Masons
  • Carpenters
  • Tile Setters
  • Exterior Cladding or Façade Specialists – Particularly for commercial or large-scale exterior applications
  • Landscapers, Plumbers, Electricians, and Painters – Often take on small-scale or interior installations

Regardless of trade, it’s important that the installer is detail-oriented, follows our installation guidelines, and is comfortable working with panel systems and masonry materials.

Can the Brick It Panel System Be Used with Other Manufacturers’ Brick?

Yes, the Brick It Panel System is compatible with other manufacturers’ thin brick, as long as the brick conforms to a standard U.S. size. The most important factor is the brick face height, which must match the panel spacing to ensure proper fit and alignment.

We recommend checking your brick dimensions and comparing them with our panel sizing chart before ordering.

How Heavy Is the DMG System With Brick and Mortar Combined?

The total weight of the installed DMG System, including thin brick and mortar, typically averages around 7 lbs per square foot. The exact weight may vary slightly depending on the brick type and thickness used in your project.

This lightweight nature makes the system suitable for a wide range of applications, including interior walls and retrofits.

What Are the Features of the DMG Panel System?

The DMG Panel System offers several key features that make installation faster, cleaner, and more reliable:

  • Continuous Ledges: The roll-formed design provides continuous horizontal ledges, which add structural rigidity and support.
  • Tongue-and-Groove Locking System: These interlocking edges make alignment simple and ensure consistent spacing between panels.
  • Adhesive Holes: A linear pattern of perforated holes allows adhesive to bridge through the panel, helping to counteract oil canning, a common issue with sheet metal.
  • Mortar Lock Punch-Outs: Strategically placed openings allow mortar to key into the panel, improving bond strength and stability.
  • Precision Brick Alignment: The system ensures proper brick spacing and alignment every time, reducing layout errors and speeding up installation.

View DMG System Page.

Is the DMG Panel System Designed for Interior or Exterior Use?

The DMG Panel System is primarily the system of choice for interior applications, thanks to its ease of use and clean finish. However, it can also be used on exterior walls when properly installed over suitable substrates and moisture barriers.

That said, for exterior installations, we typically recommend our MCS Panel System, which includes enhanced moisture management features specifically designed for outdoor environments.

How Do I Fasten the Panel to the Wall?

Fastening the panel correctly is essential for a secure and aligned installation. Follow these key guidelines:

  • The metal grid features an interlocking top and bottom edge to help maintain level placement.
  • Always check the level periodically after installing several rows.
  • Panels should be installed so the brick extends 1/2” past the grid at the ends.
  • Notch and bend the panel as needed to wrap around outside corners.
  • Use one fastener per brick row every 16” horizontally (aligned with studs or structural substrate).

Can the DMG System Be Installed Directly Over Drywall?

Yes, the DMG System panels can be installed over drywall, but the fasteners must penetrate directly into the studs behind the drywall. Drywall alone does not have the structural capacity to support the system.

Always ensure fasteners are properly aligned with the framing members to provide a secure and code-compliant installation.

Is the Brick It Panel System Approved for Use in Miami-Dade County, Florida?

Yes. The Brick It Panel System is approved in Miami-Dade County under the 2014 Florida Building Code. While this code version is still accepted, Brick It is actively working on obtaining updated approvals under newer code versions.

To locate the official approval:

We will update our documentation once the new approvals are finalized.

How Do I Install Thin Brick Using Brick it Panel System?

Installing bricks with our panel system is simple, efficient, and designed for clean, consistent results. Follow these basic steps:

  • Apply Adhesive:
    Apply Brick It adhesive to the back of each brick either in vertical lines or in quarter-sized dabs.
  • Test Layout:
    Begin by installing one row of bricks to check alignment and layout.
  • Start with Corners:
    Always start with a corner brick—or with corner bricks at both ends of the wall, if applicable.
  • Brick Placement:
    • For straight walls with no corners, install bricks following the direction of the arrows on the panel.
    • Adjust vertical joints as needed (between 3/8" and 1/2") to fit the wall area.
    • Cut end bricks to size where necessary.
  • Work Horizontally First:
    Install horizontal rows first, followed by vertical joints.
  • Use Alignment Marks:
    Draw a vertical plumb line every 48" to help maintain consistent spacing and alignment.
    More information here.

What Is the Size of Brick it Metal Panels?

Our metal grid panels are designed to hold three courses of brick, which means the panel height will vary based on the brick face height. Panels are available in two standard lengths: 48" and 96".

  • 48" panels are the most commonly used due to their ease of handling, transport, and installation.
  • 96" panels are available by special order, but are more challenging to ship and do not necessarily speed up installation.

For more sizing information, please visit the product page by clicking here

What Tools Are Required to Install Thin Brick?

Most thin brick installations require only basic masonry and tile tools, such as a trowel, mortar bag, level, jointing tool, and a saw or splitter for cutting bricks.

To make things even easier, our System Configurator displays the recommended tools for each specific step of your installation, based on your selected wall assembly and system components. We encourage you to use the configurator when quoting your project to ensure you have everything you need, including the correct tools and accessories.

What Do I Use to Fasten the Metal Grid Panel to the Wall?

We recommend using non-corrosive, preferably ribbed fasteners that provide sufficient penetration to securely anchor the metal grid panel to the substrate. The correct type of fastener will depend on the wall material (e.g., wood, steel, concrete, or masonry) and the specific system being installed.

Using the right fasteners is critical to ensure the long-term performance and stability of your thin brick installation.

You can view our recommended fasteners and purchase options by clicking here.

How Do I Point or Grout Thin Brick?

Follow these steps to properly mix and apply mortar for thin brick joints:

  • Mixing the Mortar:
    • Empty the entire contents of the 40 lb Brick It mortar mix into a 5-gallon bucket.
    • If you've ordered a colored mortar, add the full contents of the accompanying 1.5 lb colorant pack to the same bucket.
    • Slowly add clean, cold water while mixing with a 1/2" drill and mortar paddle at low speed (450–550 RPM) until the mixture reaches a smooth, workable consistency.
    • The mortar is properly mixed when it flows easily from a mortar bag.
  • Application:
    • Load the mortar into a mortar bag and apply it to the horizontal joints first, followed by the vertical joints.
    • Always overfill joints slightly to ensure there are no air pockets or voids.
  • Tooling the Joints:
    • Begin checking mortar firmness every 3–5 minutes. Once it reaches a firm but workable consistency, it's ready for tooling.
    • Use the joint tool provided in your kit to strike the vertical joints first, then the horizontal ones.
    • Hold the tool at a 45° angle and strike the joint to compress and seal the mortar against the brick edges.
    • Maintain no more than 1/8” recess from the brick face for proper finish.
    • The result will be a concave joint finish. Fill any visible voids as needed.
  • Temperature Warning:
    • Do not apply mortar when daytime or nighttime temperatures are expected to fall below 40°F, as this can compromise the curing process.

Can I Use a Sponge to Finish the Joints Like a Tile Installer Would?

We do not recommend using a sponge-finish technique for brick joints, as it is commonly done with tile. Unlike glazed tile, most brick surfaces are porous and textured, making it difficult to clean mortar off the face without leaving permanent stains or residue.

That said, if a slightly smeared or weathered appearance is part of your intended aesthetic, this technique might help achieve that look. In any case, we strongly advise testing your method on a sample panel before applying it to the main wall.

Brick it Quick Installation Tips

  • Secure Anchoring: Always anchor the metal grid securely to the substrate using appropriate fasteners. For concrete and masonry walls, use both mechanical fasteners and adhesive on the back of the grid for proper adhesion.
  • Waterproof Protection: Apply a waterproof membrane or approved weather barrier over all exterior substrates before installing the grid system.
  • Panel Spacing:
    • Stagger vertical joints of the grid for better structural integrity.
    • Leave a minimum 1/8" gap between panel joints.
    • Stop the metal panel 1/2" short of edges and terminations to allow for movement and finish detailing.
  • Adhesive Cure Time: Allow at least 24 hours for the adhesive to cure before proceeding with mortaring.
  • Mortar Mixing:
    • Use only clean, cold water, especially in warm weather.
    • Always flush hoses before use to remove any contaminants.
  • Brick Preparation:
    • Slightly dampen bricks before applying mortar, particularly during hot or dry conditions, to prevent premature moisture loss from the mortar.

What’s the Purpose of the Drainage Mat?

The drainage mat plays a critical role in managing moisture behind thin brick veneer. Made from high-impact materials, it allows for the rapid exit of water that brick naturally absorbs, promoting continuous airflow between the veneer and the structural wall. This helps prevent moisture buildup, mold, and long-term damage to the building envelope.

Which Moisture Barrier Should I Use?

Although we are not a manufacturer of moisture barriers and cannot recommend a specific brand, we can provide some general guidance based on industry standards. Most professionals now recommend using two layers of moisture protection behind thin brick veneer. This can include:

  • Two layers of building paper.
  • A combination of one roll-on applied membrane and one sheet-applied layer.
  • Pre-bonded 2-ply papers, which unroll together for easier installation.

It’s important to note that brick and mortar are not waterproof—your moisture barrier is the critical line of defense against water intrusion. For this reason, we strongly advise consulting your project architect or building envelope consultant to select the appropriate system.

For moisture control accessories offered through Brick It, click here.

Why Do the Panels Have Rectangular Holes and What Are They For?

The rectangular holes in our panels serve two important functions:

  • Water Drainage – Certain holes are specifically designed to allow moisture to escape from behind the brick veneer, helping to prevent water accumulation and potential damage.
  • Oil Canning Control – Other holes are strategically placed to help bridge and minimize oil canning, a visual distortion that can occur in flat metal surfaces.

During product development and testing, we discovered that round holes are less effective at drainage, as water tends to flow around them, especially when punched from the back, which creates a subtle burr that deflects water. To address this, we intentionally designed rectangular holes and adjusted the punch direction, improving both drainage and performance.

Do You Have Instructions on How to Install the System?

Yes. We offer a detailed three-part installation video on our YouTube channel. While the video may feel a bit long or dated, it remains a valuable resource. It features Brick-It’s original inventor, who shares the installation process with genuine passion and first-hand insight.

Though we’ve considered updating it, we’ve chosen to keep it live for both sentimental value and its instructional clarity. We encourage you to watch—it’s time well spent. 

Part #1 is attached, and for parts two & three, click here.

How Does the Metal Grid System 〈DMD or MCS〉 Compare to Conventional Installation Methods?

Conventional thin brick installation systems are generally slower and more labor-intensive. On average, a skilled installer using a conventional system can set approximately 250 bricks per day. In contrast, the same installer can install around 1,200 bricks per day using one of our metal panel systems (DMD or MCS), making them significantly more efficient.

Thin-set systems are sometimes used for small interior applications—such as kitchen backsplashes or concrete stoops—typically up to 100 square feet in size. Thick-set systems, while slightly lower in material cost, require extensive labor and are rarely used due to their higher total project cost.

Our metal grid systems offer a modern, cost-effective, and time-saving alternative to traditional methods—ideal for both commercial and residential applications.

How Far Will the Brick Project Off the Existing Wall Using the DMG System?

The DMG (Designer Metal Grid) system uses a metal panel that is exceptionally thin—approximately 0.016"—and does not meaningfully contribute to the total system thickness. In most cases, the overall projection is determined solely by the thickness of the brick itself.

You can find exact brick dimensions on each product page under the Shapes & Sizes tab.

How Do Thermal Panel Movements Affect Installation?

When installing thin brick panel systems, it is important to allow for thermal expansion and contraction by leaving approximately a 1/4" gap between panels. Based on over 30 years of industry experience, we have not observed issues related to thermal movement when panels are installed correctly. For additional flexibility, we recommend using our hybrid thin brick adhesive. Once cured, it remains permanently flexible and does not harden, accommodating slight movements without compromising bond integrity.

Can I hang pictures, awnings, or attach fixtures to thin brick veneer?

Thin brick veneer is non-structural and not designed to support loads. We generally do not recommend fastening directly into the veneer. Instead, anchor fixtures to the underlying wall structure before applying the veneer.

Best Practices:

  • Plan in advance: install backing or supports (e.g., blocking or junction boxes) behind the veneer during rough-in
  • For items like sconces, it's acceptable to mount them on a junction box that is securely fastened to the wall
  • Ensure all penetrations are properly sealed to maintain water-tightness
  • For heavier items such as awnings or shelves, always consult a structural professional and coordinate mounting details before veneer installation.

How does wall deflection affect thin brick veneer installations?

For masonry or concrete substrates, wall deflection is typically not a concern, since the substrate and veneer have similar stiffness. However, when installing thin brick over wood or steel stud framing, deflection must be carefully controlled due to the difference in stiffness between the veneer and the frame.

Code Guidelines:

  • The International Building Code (IBC) limits stud wall deflection to L/240 when rigid finishes like thin brick are applied. 
  • For interior adhered veneer supported by wood floors, vertical floor deflection is limited to L/600.
  • A more conservative L/360 limit is recommended to minimize cracking and prevent veneer separation when using stud framing.
  • Proper structural design and framing practices are essential for ensuring a durable, long-lasting veneer installation, especially over flexible substrates.

Is a water-resistive barrier (WRB) and drainage system required behind thin brick veneer?

Yes. Both the International Residential Code (IRC) and the International Building Code (IBC) require exterior walls to include:
A water-resistive barrier (WRB)
A means of drainage behind the veneer, with limited exceptions

General Requirements:
WRB must be installed over sheathing or studs in framed wall assemblies
Assemblies tested to ASTM E331 for wind-driven rain resistance may also be exempt

Material Standards:
Acceptable WRB: One layer of No. 15 asphalt felt (ASTM D226, Type I) or other approved material
Over wood-based sheathing:
Use two layers of vapor-permeable WRB (equivalent to Grade D paper), or
A single high-performance WRB (60-minute Grade D equivalent) separated from the veneer by a drainage space or non-absorbent layer

Means of Drainage:
While code does not prescribe exact materials, products such as drainage mats are commonly used and preferred
Brick It’s MCS and CI systems incorporate designed drainage solutions that meet these requirements

WRBs are not required for interior applications, but may still be helpful in preventing moisture damage during installation.
For full compliance, consult your local building codes or refer to the IBC/IRC.

Where and how should flashing and weep screeds be installed in thin brick veneer systems?

Flashing collects moisture that enters the veneer system and channels it out through weeps. Building codes mandate flashing and weep locations to ensure proper drainage and prevent moisture damage.

Required Locations:

  • Below the first course, above the final grade (IRC requires flashing or weep screed to extend 1 in. [25 mm] below the foundation plate over stud walls)
  • At points of support like shelf angles, lintels, and structural floors
  • At wall/roof intersections
  • Around all window and door openings (head, jambs, and sills)
  • Where masonry meets frame/stucco walls (e.g., chimneys)
  • Under copings, sills, and terminations
  • Where decks, porches, or stairs connect to framed walls

    Installation Details:
  • The first brick course should sit directly above flashing or screed, without a mortar joint, to facilitate drainage
  • Flashing must extend to or beyond the wall face, with the back flange turned up ≥ 3½ in. (89 mm)
  • The water-resistive barrier (WRB) should lap over the flashing
  • In two-layer WRB assemblies over wood sheathing, flashing should be placed between the layers
  • A drip edge or weep screed is recommended if flashing is UV-sensitive
  • Without a drip edge, flashing should be cut flush with the wall face

What are the clearance requirements for installing thin brick veneer near grade or paving?

According to the International Residential Code (IRC) and International Building Code (IBC), exterior thin brick veneer over stud walls must maintain minimum clearances for durability and moisture protection:

  • 4 inches (102 mm) above finished grade
  • 2 inches (51 mm) above paved surfaces
  • ½ inch (12 mm) above exterior walking surfaces supported by the same foundation
  • Thin brick must also extend at least 1 inch (25 mm) below the top of the concrete or masonry foundation wall

    These requirements help prevent moisture damage and ensure long-term performance. Always verify with local building codes or your project’s design professional for compliance.

Why are movement joints important in thin brick veneer systems?

Thin brick veneers can experience differential movement as bricks expand and substrates shrink. To avoid cracking or system failure, properly placed movement joints are critical. These joints allow for natural expansion, contraction, and structural movement.

Placement Guidelines:

  • Maximum spacing: 18 feet (5.5 m) vertically or horizontally
  • Maximum area between joints: 144 sq. ft. (13.4 m²)
  • Preferably square zones with a maximum 2½:1 length-to-height ratio
  • Align joints with substrate joints when applied over concrete or masonry
  • On framed walls, veneer joints don’t need to align with sheathing joints

    Construction Notes:
  • Joints must extend fully through the veneer to the substrate
  • Use a compressible filler during mortar placement to keep joints clear
  • Apply backer rod and sealant at the surface to block moisture
  • Minimum joint width: ⅜ inch (10 mm)
  • Mesh or lath reinforcement should stop at joints and not bridge across

    Proper movement joint design and execution are essential for system longevity and should follow project-specific architectural and engineering requirements.

Can the system be used to span between a plywood substrate and a concrete foundation?

Technically, installations over plywood and concrete should be treated as two separate systems, divided by a properly placed caulk joint to allow for differential movement. In residential or smaller-scale applications, some customers choose to take an educated risk by treating the area as a single installation — omitting the caulk joint for aesthetic reasons. While this approach is common, it is done at the customer’s discretion. Please note that Brick It cannot assume responsibility for any resulting issues, even though the risk of failure may be minimal.

Curved Wall

To achieve a curved wall, various brick patterns may be used.
A running bond is a common starting point, but if the layout appears too "choppy," switching to a header or soldier course may provide a smoother appearance. The choice ultimately depends on the designer's intent and aesthetic preference.

Determining the minimum achievable radius depends on the brick size and selected pattern. As a general guideline, shorter bricks allow for tighter curves. For greater accuracy and visualization, designers and architects are encouraged to model the wall in CAD using actual brick and curve dimensions.

For additional Information click here.

Moisture Control System, MCS

What Thin Brick Sizes Are Available at Brick It?

Brick It offers thin brick in all standard industry sizes. The most popular is the Modular (MOD) size, with a face dimension of 2 1/4" x 7 5/8". Other sizes are also available to accommodate specific project requirements. When purchasing metal panel systems separately, it is important to confirm the brick height to ensure accurate panel compatibility.

I Was Installing Thin Brick and Now I Have Some Cement Smears on the Face. How Do I Clean It Off?

When installed cleanly and carefully, your thin brick veneer should require little to no cleaning. However, if you notice cement smears or residue, some bricks may benefit from a light rinse using a mild-strength cleaning solution.

Here are a few important tips:

  • Always follow the cleaning product manufacturer’s instructions carefully.
  • We offer several cleaning solutions that are compatible with thin brick surfaces.
  • For more advanced guidance, we recommend visiting www.prosoco.com, a trusted industry leader in masonry cleaning products.

Important Caution:
Before applying any chemical cleaner to your actual project, test it on a sample panel or a small, inconspicuous area. Many cleaning products are irreversible and may affect the appearance of the brick if not used properly.

Why Should I Use the Brick It System for Thin Brick Installation?

Installing thin brick veneers requires more than just the brick itself; it requires a complete, well-engineered system. The Brick It System provides all the necessary components to ensure a proper, code-compliant installation, whether for interior or exterior use.

By purchasing all materials directly from Brick It, you benefit from:

  • Convenience – Everything you need from one trusted source.
  • Compatibility – Products designed to work together for optimal performance.
  • Warranty Protection – A system-based warranty supported by a single manufacturer.
  • Single Source of Responsibility – One point of contact for technical support, guidance, and accountability.

Choosing the Brick It System ensures peace of mind and a successful thin brick installation.

Which System Should I Use?

The right system depends on your project needs, but here is a quick overview to help you decide:

  • Designer Metal Grid (DMG) System
    This is our most popular solution. It is the easiest to install, cost-effective, and ideal for both professionals and DIY users. It’s a great choice for most interior and basic exterior applications.
  • Moisture Control System (MCS)
    If moisture management is a concern, especially for exterior walls, the MCS system offers built-in drainage features and enhanced protection against water intrusion.
  • Continuous Insulation System (CI)
    This system is ideal when your project requires added thermal performance. It integrates foam insulation and a structural fastening method to help meet modern energy codes while still supporting thin brick installation.

Each system serves a specific purpose, so consider your climate, wall assembly, and performance goals when choosing.

Can a Person with Limited Construction Experience Handle the Installation, Like a Typical Homeowner?

Absolutely. Our metal grid system is designed to be user-friendly and efficient, making it accessible even to those with little or no construction background. Over the years, we have seen many homeowners and individuals with varying skill levels complete their own installations with great success.

Those who take on the project themselves often enjoy a strong sense of pride and accomplishment, along with a finished product that looks professionally installed. By carefully following the instructions and taking your time, this can be a very rewarding experience.

I’m a Skilled Contractor, Why Should I Use Brick-It’s Panel System?

The Brick-It Panel System offers significant benefits even for experienced contractors by enhancing strength, ease of installation, and most importantly, speed.

For comparison:

  • With conventional thin-set or thick-set methods, a skilled installer typically places 250 to 350 bricks per day.
  • Using the Brick-It metal grid system, that number jumps to 1,100 to 1,400 bricks per day—a 3 to 5× productivity increase.

Much of this output can be achieved with just one mechanic, supported by a small team of helpers, making the system extremely cost-effective. Faster installation means lower labor costs, quicker project turnaround, and more jobs completed with the same crew.

In short, it helps skilled professionals work smarter and more profitably, without compromising quality.

Do You Have Brick it Installers in My Area?

Brick It does not offer installation services and does not employ installers. While we likely have customers who have purchased our systems in your area, we cannot verify or endorse their work, as we haven’t seen their completed projects and cannot speak to their quality or professionalism.

We recommend hiring a trusted local contractor with experience in one of the following trades:

  • Stucco installation.
  • Carpentry.
  • Tile setting.
  • Masonry.
  • Or a qualified handyman.

Any skilled professional familiar with exterior finishes or panel systems should be able to install Brick It products successfully by following our provided installation guidelines.

What Type of Contractors Install Thin Brick?

The type of contractor best suited for your project will depend on its scope and setting. The following professionals are commonly capable of installing thin brick panel systems:

  • Stucco Contractors
  • Masons
  • Carpenters
  • Tile Setters
  • Exterior Cladding or Façade Specialists – Particularly for commercial or large-scale exterior applications
  • Landscapers, Plumbers, Electricians, and Painters – Often take on small-scale or interior installations

Regardless of trade, it’s important that the installer is detail-oriented, follows our installation guidelines, and is comfortable working with panel systems and masonry materials.

Can the Brick It Panel System Be Used with Other Manufacturers’ Brick?

Yes, the Brick It Panel System is compatible with other manufacturers’ thin brick, as long as the brick conforms to a standard U.S. size. The most important factor is the brick face height, which must match the panel spacing to ensure proper fit and alignment.

We recommend checking your brick dimensions and comparing them with our panel sizing chart before ordering.

How Do I Fasten the Panel to the Wall?

Fastening the panel correctly is essential for a secure and aligned installation. Follow these key guidelines:

  • The metal grid features an interlocking top and bottom edge to help maintain level placement.
  • Always check the level periodically after installing several rows.
  • Panels should be installed so the brick extends 1/2” past the grid at the ends.
  • Notch and bend the panel as needed to wrap around outside corners.
  • Use one fastener per brick row every 16” horizontally (aligned with studs or structural substrate).

Is the Brick It Panel System Approved for Use in Miami-Dade County, Florida?

Yes. The Brick It Panel System is approved in Miami-Dade County under the 2014 Florida Building Code. While this code version is still accepted, Brick It is actively working on obtaining updated approvals under newer code versions.

To locate the official approval:

We will update our documentation once the new approvals are finalized.

How Do I Install Thin Brick Using Brick it Panel System?

Installing bricks with our panel system is simple, efficient, and designed for clean, consistent results. Follow these basic steps:

  • Apply Adhesive:
    Apply Brick It adhesive to the back of each brick either in vertical lines or in quarter-sized dabs.
  • Test Layout:
    Begin by installing one row of bricks to check alignment and layout.
  • Start with Corners:
    Always start with a corner brick—or with corner bricks at both ends of the wall, if applicable.
  • Brick Placement:
    • For straight walls with no corners, install bricks following the direction of the arrows on the panel.
    • Adjust vertical joints as needed (between 3/8" and 1/2") to fit the wall area.
    • Cut end bricks to size where necessary.
  • Work Horizontally First:
    Install horizontal rows first, followed by vertical joints.
  • Use Alignment Marks:
    Draw a vertical plumb line every 48" to help maintain consistent spacing and alignment.
    More information here.

What Is the Size of Brick it Metal Panels?

Our metal grid panels are designed to hold three courses of brick, which means the panel height will vary based on the brick face height. Panels are available in two standard lengths: 48" and 96".

  • 48" panels are the most commonly used due to their ease of handling, transport, and installation.
  • 96" panels are available by special order, but are more challenging to ship and do not necessarily speed up installation.

For more sizing information, please visit the product page by clicking here

What Tools Are Required to Install Thin Brick?

Most thin brick installations require only basic masonry and tile tools, such as a trowel, mortar bag, level, jointing tool, and a saw or splitter for cutting bricks.

To make things even easier, our System Configurator displays the recommended tools for each specific step of your installation, based on your selected wall assembly and system components. We encourage you to use the configurator when quoting your project to ensure you have everything you need, including the correct tools and accessories.

What Do I Use to Fasten the Metal Grid Panel to the Wall?

We recommend using non-corrosive, preferably ribbed fasteners that provide sufficient penetration to securely anchor the metal grid panel to the substrate. The correct type of fastener will depend on the wall material (e.g., wood, steel, concrete, or masonry) and the specific system being installed.

Using the right fasteners is critical to ensure the long-term performance and stability of your thin brick installation.

You can view our recommended fasteners and purchase options by clicking here.

How Do I Point or Grout Thin Brick?

Follow these steps to properly mix and apply mortar for thin brick joints:

  • Mixing the Mortar:
    • Empty the entire contents of the 40 lb Brick It mortar mix into a 5-gallon bucket.
    • If you've ordered a colored mortar, add the full contents of the accompanying 1.5 lb colorant pack to the same bucket.
    • Slowly add clean, cold water while mixing with a 1/2" drill and mortar paddle at low speed (450–550 RPM) until the mixture reaches a smooth, workable consistency.
    • The mortar is properly mixed when it flows easily from a mortar bag.
  • Application:
    • Load the mortar into a mortar bag and apply it to the horizontal joints first, followed by the vertical joints.
    • Always overfill joints slightly to ensure there are no air pockets or voids.
  • Tooling the Joints:
    • Begin checking mortar firmness every 3–5 minutes. Once it reaches a firm but workable consistency, it's ready for tooling.
    • Use the joint tool provided in your kit to strike the vertical joints first, then the horizontal ones.
    • Hold the tool at a 45° angle and strike the joint to compress and seal the mortar against the brick edges.
    • Maintain no more than 1/8” recess from the brick face for proper finish.
    • The result will be a concave joint finish. Fill any visible voids as needed.
  • Temperature Warning:
    • Do not apply mortar when daytime or nighttime temperatures are expected to fall below 40°F, as this can compromise the curing process.

Can I Use a Sponge to Finish the Joints Like a Tile Installer Would?

We do not recommend using a sponge-finish technique for brick joints, as it is commonly done with tile. Unlike glazed tile, most brick surfaces are porous and textured, making it difficult to clean mortar off the face without leaving permanent stains or residue.

That said, if a slightly smeared or weathered appearance is part of your intended aesthetic, this technique might help achieve that look. In any case, we strongly advise testing your method on a sample panel before applying it to the main wall.

Brick it Quick Installation Tips

  • Secure Anchoring: Always anchor the metal grid securely to the substrate using appropriate fasteners. For concrete and masonry walls, use both mechanical fasteners and adhesive on the back of the grid for proper adhesion.
  • Waterproof Protection: Apply a waterproof membrane or approved weather barrier over all exterior substrates before installing the grid system.
  • Panel Spacing:
    • Stagger vertical joints of the grid for better structural integrity.
    • Leave a minimum 1/8" gap between panel joints.
    • Stop the metal panel 1/2" short of edges and terminations to allow for movement and finish detailing.
  • Adhesive Cure Time: Allow at least 24 hours for the adhesive to cure before proceeding with mortaring.
  • Mortar Mixing:
    • Use only clean, cold water, especially in warm weather.
    • Always flush hoses before use to remove any contaminants.
  • Brick Preparation:
    • Slightly dampen bricks before applying mortar, particularly during hot or dry conditions, to prevent premature moisture loss from the mortar.

What’s the Purpose of the Drainage Mat?

The drainage mat plays a critical role in managing moisture behind thin brick veneer. Made from high-impact materials, it allows for the rapid exit of water that brick naturally absorbs, promoting continuous airflow between the veneer and the structural wall. This helps prevent moisture buildup, mold, and long-term damage to the building envelope.

What Is the Moisture Control System 〈MCS〉?

The Moisture Control System (MCS) combines all the features of our Metal Grid System with integrated moisture management capabilities. Its patented design (U.S. Patent #8,141,310) actively redirects water from the front of the panel to the back every 8 inches using strategically placed offset weep holes.

This approach helps protect the wall assembly by promoting drainage and ventilation behind the brick veneer, making it the only patented moisture control system specifically designed for thin brick installation.

Is the Moisture Control System 〈MCS〉 More Expensive Than the DMG System?

Yes, the MCS System is slightly more expensive than the DMG System. This is due to its additional components, such as the integrated drainage mat, and the use of a higher-grade galvanized coating for enhanced durability and moisture management.

Think of it as an insurance policy for your wall assembly, an added layer of protection that may be well worth the investment, depending on your project's exposure and performance goals. The best way to evaluate the cost difference is to request a quote and compare the full system pricing. Ultimately, the choice is yours.

Which Moisture Barrier Should I Use?

Although we are not a manufacturer of moisture barriers and cannot recommend a specific brand, we can provide some general guidance based on industry standards. Most professionals now recommend using two layers of moisture protection behind thin brick veneer. This can include:

  • Two layers of building paper.
  • A combination of one roll-on applied membrane and one sheet-applied layer.
  • Pre-bonded 2-ply papers, which unroll together for easier installation.

It’s important to note that brick and mortar are not waterproof—your moisture barrier is the critical line of defense against water intrusion. For this reason, we strongly advise consulting your project architect or building envelope consultant to select the appropriate system.

For moisture control accessories offered through Brick It, click here.

Why Do the Panels Have Rectangular Holes and What Are They For?

The rectangular holes in our panels serve two important functions:

  • Water Drainage – Certain holes are specifically designed to allow moisture to escape from behind the brick veneer, helping to prevent water accumulation and potential damage.
  • Oil Canning Control – Other holes are strategically placed to help bridge and minimize oil canning, a visual distortion that can occur in flat metal surfaces.

During product development and testing, we discovered that round holes are less effective at drainage, as water tends to flow around them, especially when punched from the back, which creates a subtle burr that deflects water. To address this, we intentionally designed rectangular holes and adjusted the punch direction, improving both drainage and performance.

How Does the Metal Grid System 〈DMD or MCS〉 Compare to Conventional Installation Methods?

Conventional thin brick installation systems are generally slower and more labor-intensive. On average, a skilled installer using a conventional system can set approximately 250 bricks per day. In contrast, the same installer can install around 1,200 bricks per day using one of our metal panel systems (DMD or MCS), making them significantly more efficient.

Thin-set systems are sometimes used for small interior applications—such as kitchen backsplashes or concrete stoops—typically up to 100 square feet in size. Thick-set systems, while slightly lower in material cost, require extensive labor and are rarely used due to their higher total project cost.

Our metal grid systems offer a modern, cost-effective, and time-saving alternative to traditional methods—ideal for both commercial and residential applications.

How Far Will the Brick Project Off the Existing Wall Using the MCS System?

The MCS (Moisture Control System) panel is extremely thin—approximately 0.016"—and does not significantly affect the overall system thickness. To calculate the total projection from the existing wall, simply add the thickness of the brick and the drainage mat.

Brick dimensions can be found on each product page under the Shapes & Sizes tab. The combined thickness of these components will give you an accurate estimate of how far the system will extend off the wall.

How Do Thermal Panel Movements Affect Installation?

When installing thin brick panel systems, it is important to allow for thermal expansion and contraction by leaving approximately a 1/4" gap between panels. Based on over 30 years of industry experience, we have not observed issues related to thermal movement when panels are installed correctly. For additional flexibility, we recommend using our hybrid thin brick adhesive. Once cured, it remains permanently flexible and does not harden, accommodating slight movements without compromising bond integrity.

Can I hang pictures, awnings, or attach fixtures to thin brick veneer?

Thin brick veneer is non-structural and not designed to support loads. We generally do not recommend fastening directly into the veneer. Instead, anchor fixtures to the underlying wall structure before applying the veneer.

Best Practices:

  • Plan in advance: install backing or supports (e.g., blocking or junction boxes) behind the veneer during rough-in
  • For items like sconces, it's acceptable to mount them on a junction box that is securely fastened to the wall
  • Ensure all penetrations are properly sealed to maintain water-tightness
  • For heavier items such as awnings or shelves, always consult a structural professional and coordinate mounting details before veneer installation.

How does wall deflection affect thin brick veneer installations?

For masonry or concrete substrates, wall deflection is typically not a concern, since the substrate and veneer have similar stiffness. However, when installing thin brick over wood or steel stud framing, deflection must be carefully controlled due to the difference in stiffness between the veneer and the frame.

Code Guidelines:

  • The International Building Code (IBC) limits stud wall deflection to L/240 when rigid finishes like thin brick are applied. 
  • For interior adhered veneer supported by wood floors, vertical floor deflection is limited to L/600.
  • A more conservative L/360 limit is recommended to minimize cracking and prevent veneer separation when using stud framing.
  • Proper structural design and framing practices are essential for ensuring a durable, long-lasting veneer installation, especially over flexible substrates.

Is a water-resistive barrier (WRB) and drainage system required behind thin brick veneer?

Yes. Both the International Residential Code (IRC) and the International Building Code (IBC) require exterior walls to include:
A water-resistive barrier (WRB)
A means of drainage behind the veneer, with limited exceptions

General Requirements:
WRB must be installed over sheathing or studs in framed wall assemblies
Assemblies tested to ASTM E331 for wind-driven rain resistance may also be exempt

Material Standards:
Acceptable WRB: One layer of No. 15 asphalt felt (ASTM D226, Type I) or other approved material
Over wood-based sheathing:
Use two layers of vapor-permeable WRB (equivalent to Grade D paper), or
A single high-performance WRB (60-minute Grade D equivalent) separated from the veneer by a drainage space or non-absorbent layer

Means of Drainage:
While code does not prescribe exact materials, products such as drainage mats are commonly used and preferred
Brick It’s MCS and CI systems incorporate designed drainage solutions that meet these requirements

WRBs are not required for interior applications, but may still be helpful in preventing moisture damage during installation.
For full compliance, consult your local building codes or refer to the IBC/IRC.

Where and how should flashing and weep screeds be installed in thin brick veneer systems?

Flashing collects moisture that enters the veneer system and channels it out through weeps. Building codes mandate flashing and weep locations to ensure proper drainage and prevent moisture damage.

Required Locations:

  • Below the first course, above the final grade (IRC requires flashing or weep screed to extend 1 in. [25 mm] below the foundation plate over stud walls)
  • At points of support like shelf angles, lintels, and structural floors
  • At wall/roof intersections
  • Around all window and door openings (head, jambs, and sills)
  • Where masonry meets frame/stucco walls (e.g., chimneys)
  • Under copings, sills, and terminations
  • Where decks, porches, or stairs connect to framed walls

    Installation Details:
  • The first brick course should sit directly above flashing or screed, without a mortar joint, to facilitate drainage
  • Flashing must extend to or beyond the wall face, with the back flange turned up ≥ 3½ in. (89 mm)
  • The water-resistive barrier (WRB) should lap over the flashing
  • In two-layer WRB assemblies over wood sheathing, flashing should be placed between the layers
  • A drip edge or weep screed is recommended if flashing is UV-sensitive
  • Without a drip edge, flashing should be cut flush with the wall face

What are the clearance requirements for installing thin brick veneer near grade or paving?

According to the International Residential Code (IRC) and International Building Code (IBC), exterior thin brick veneer over stud walls must maintain minimum clearances for durability and moisture protection:

  • 4 inches (102 mm) above finished grade
  • 2 inches (51 mm) above paved surfaces
  • ½ inch (12 mm) above exterior walking surfaces supported by the same foundation
  • Thin brick must also extend at least 1 inch (25 mm) below the top of the concrete or masonry foundation wall

    These requirements help prevent moisture damage and ensure long-term performance. Always verify with local building codes or your project’s design professional for compliance.

Why are movement joints important in thin brick veneer systems?

Thin brick veneers can experience differential movement as bricks expand and substrates shrink. To avoid cracking or system failure, properly placed movement joints are critical. These joints allow for natural expansion, contraction, and structural movement.

Placement Guidelines:

  • Maximum spacing: 18 feet (5.5 m) vertically or horizontally
  • Maximum area between joints: 144 sq. ft. (13.4 m²)
  • Preferably square zones with a maximum 2½:1 length-to-height ratio
  • Align joints with substrate joints when applied over concrete or masonry
  • On framed walls, veneer joints don’t need to align with sheathing joints

    Construction Notes:
  • Joints must extend fully through the veneer to the substrate
  • Use a compressible filler during mortar placement to keep joints clear
  • Apply backer rod and sealant at the surface to block moisture
  • Minimum joint width: ⅜ inch (10 mm)
  • Mesh or lath reinforcement should stop at joints and not bridge across

    Proper movement joint design and execution are essential for system longevity and should follow project-specific architectural and engineering requirements.

Can the system be used to span between a plywood substrate and a concrete foundation?

Technically, installations over plywood and concrete should be treated as two separate systems, divided by a properly placed caulk joint to allow for differential movement. In residential or smaller-scale applications, some customers choose to take an educated risk by treating the area as a single installation — omitting the caulk joint for aesthetic reasons. While this approach is common, it is done at the customer’s discretion. Please note that Brick It cannot assume responsibility for any resulting issues, even though the risk of failure may be minimal.

Curved Wall

To achieve a curved wall, various brick patterns may be used.
A running bond is a common starting point, but if the layout appears too "choppy," switching to a header or soldier course may provide a smoother appearance. The choice ultimately depends on the designer's intent and aesthetic preference.

Determining the minimum achievable radius depends on the brick size and selected pattern. As a general guideline, shorter bricks allow for tighter curves. For greater accuracy and visualization, designers and architects are encouraged to model the wall in CAD using actual brick and curve dimensions.

For additional Information click here.

Continuous Insulation, CI

What Thin Brick Sizes Are Available at Brick It?

Brick It offers thin brick in all standard industry sizes. The most popular is the Modular (MOD) size, with a face dimension of 2 1/4" x 7 5/8". Other sizes are also available to accommodate specific project requirements. When purchasing metal panel systems separately, it is important to confirm the brick height to ensure accurate panel compatibility.

I Was Installing Thin Brick and Now I Have Some Cement Smears on the Face. How Do I Clean It Off?

When installed cleanly and carefully, your thin brick veneer should require little to no cleaning. However, if you notice cement smears or residue, some bricks may benefit from a light rinse using a mild-strength cleaning solution.

Here are a few important tips:

  • Always follow the cleaning product manufacturer’s instructions carefully.
  • We offer several cleaning solutions that are compatible with thin brick surfaces.
  • For more advanced guidance, we recommend visiting www.prosoco.com, a trusted industry leader in masonry cleaning products.

Important Caution:
Before applying any chemical cleaner to your actual project, test it on a sample panel or a small, inconspicuous area. Many cleaning products are irreversible and may affect the appearance of the brick if not used properly.

Why Should I Use the Brick It System for Thin Brick Installation?

Installing thin brick veneers requires more than just the brick itself; it requires a complete, well-engineered system. The Brick It System provides all the necessary components to ensure a proper, code-compliant installation, whether for interior or exterior use.

By purchasing all materials directly from Brick It, you benefit from:

  • Convenience – Everything you need from one trusted source.
  • Compatibility – Products designed to work together for optimal performance.
  • Warranty Protection – A system-based warranty supported by a single manufacturer.
  • Single Source of Responsibility – One point of contact for technical support, guidance, and accountability.

Choosing the Brick It System ensures peace of mind and a successful thin brick installation.

Which System Should I Use?

The right system depends on your project needs, but here is a quick overview to help you decide:

  • Designer Metal Grid (DMG) System
    This is our most popular solution. It is the easiest to install, cost-effective, and ideal for both professionals and DIY users. It’s a great choice for most interior and basic exterior applications.
  • Moisture Control System (MCS)
    If moisture management is a concern, especially for exterior walls, the MCS system offers built-in drainage features and enhanced protection against water intrusion.
  • Continuous Insulation System (CI)
    This system is ideal when your project requires added thermal performance. It integrates foam insulation and a structural fastening method to help meet modern energy codes while still supporting thin brick installation.

Each system serves a specific purpose, so consider your climate, wall assembly, and performance goals when choosing.

I’m a Skilled Contractor, Why Should I Use Brick-It’s Panel System?

The Brick-It Panel System offers significant benefits even for experienced contractors by enhancing strength, ease of installation, and most importantly, speed.

For comparison:

  • With conventional thin-set or thick-set methods, a skilled installer typically places 250 to 350 bricks per day.
  • Using the Brick-It metal grid system, that number jumps to 1,100 to 1,400 bricks per day—a 3 to 5× productivity increase.

Much of this output can be achieved with just one mechanic, supported by a small team of helpers, making the system extremely cost-effective. Faster installation means lower labor costs, quicker project turnaround, and more jobs completed with the same crew.

In short, it helps skilled professionals work smarter and more profitably, without compromising quality.

Do You Have Brick it Installers in My Area?

Brick It does not offer installation services and does not employ installers. While we likely have customers who have purchased our systems in your area, we cannot verify or endorse their work, as we haven’t seen their completed projects and cannot speak to their quality or professionalism.

We recommend hiring a trusted local contractor with experience in one of the following trades:

  • Stucco installation.
  • Carpentry.
  • Tile setting.
  • Masonry.
  • Or a qualified handyman.

Any skilled professional familiar with exterior finishes or panel systems should be able to install Brick It products successfully by following our provided installation guidelines.

What Type of Contractors Install Thin Brick?

The type of contractor best suited for your project will depend on its scope and setting. The following professionals are commonly capable of installing thin brick panel systems:

  • Stucco Contractors
  • Masons
  • Carpenters
  • Tile Setters
  • Exterior Cladding or Façade Specialists – Particularly for commercial or large-scale exterior applications
  • Landscapers, Plumbers, Electricians, and Painters – Often take on small-scale or interior installations

Regardless of trade, it’s important that the installer is detail-oriented, follows our installation guidelines, and is comfortable working with panel systems and masonry materials.

Can the Brick It Panel System Be Used with Other Manufacturers’ Brick?

Yes, the Brick It Panel System is compatible with other manufacturers’ thin brick, as long as the brick conforms to a standard U.S. size. The most important factor is the brick face height, which must match the panel spacing to ensure proper fit and alignment.

We recommend checking your brick dimensions and comparing them with our panel sizing chart before ordering.

What Is the Size of Brick it Metal Panels?

Our metal grid panels are designed to hold three courses of brick, which means the panel height will vary based on the brick face height. Panels are available in two standard lengths: 48" and 96".

  • 48" panels are the most commonly used due to their ease of handling, transport, and installation.
  • 96" panels are available by special order, but are more challenging to ship and do not necessarily speed up installation.

For more sizing information, please visit the product page by clicking here

What Tools Are Required to Install Thin Brick?

Most thin brick installations require only basic masonry and tile tools, such as a trowel, mortar bag, level, jointing tool, and a saw or splitter for cutting bricks.

To make things even easier, our System Configurator displays the recommended tools for each specific step of your installation, based on your selected wall assembly and system components. We encourage you to use the configurator when quoting your project to ensure you have everything you need, including the correct tools and accessories.

What Do I Use to Fasten the Metal Grid Panel to the Wall?

We recommend using non-corrosive, preferably ribbed fasteners that provide sufficient penetration to securely anchor the metal grid panel to the substrate. The correct type of fastener will depend on the wall material (e.g., wood, steel, concrete, or masonry) and the specific system being installed.

Using the right fasteners is critical to ensure the long-term performance and stability of your thin brick installation.

You can view our recommended fasteners and purchase options by clicking here.

How Do I Point or Grout Thin Brick?

Follow these steps to properly mix and apply mortar for thin brick joints:

  • Mixing the Mortar:
    • Empty the entire contents of the 40 lb Brick It mortar mix into a 5-gallon bucket.
    • If you've ordered a colored mortar, add the full contents of the accompanying 1.5 lb colorant pack to the same bucket.
    • Slowly add clean, cold water while mixing with a 1/2" drill and mortar paddle at low speed (450–550 RPM) until the mixture reaches a smooth, workable consistency.
    • The mortar is properly mixed when it flows easily from a mortar bag.
  • Application:
    • Load the mortar into a mortar bag and apply it to the horizontal joints first, followed by the vertical joints.
    • Always overfill joints slightly to ensure there are no air pockets or voids.
  • Tooling the Joints:
    • Begin checking mortar firmness every 3–5 minutes. Once it reaches a firm but workable consistency, it's ready for tooling.
    • Use the joint tool provided in your kit to strike the vertical joints first, then the horizontal ones.
    • Hold the tool at a 45° angle and strike the joint to compress and seal the mortar against the brick edges.
    • Maintain no more than 1/8” recess from the brick face for proper finish.
    • The result will be a concave joint finish. Fill any visible voids as needed.
  • Temperature Warning:
    • Do not apply mortar when daytime or nighttime temperatures are expected to fall below 40°F, as this can compromise the curing process.

Can I Use a Sponge to Finish the Joints Like a Tile Installer Would?

We do not recommend using a sponge-finish technique for brick joints, as it is commonly done with tile. Unlike glazed tile, most brick surfaces are porous and textured, making it difficult to clean mortar off the face without leaving permanent stains or residue.

That said, if a slightly smeared or weathered appearance is part of your intended aesthetic, this technique might help achieve that look. In any case, we strongly advise testing your method on a sample panel before applying it to the main wall.

Which Moisture Barrier Should I Use?

Although we are not a manufacturer of moisture barriers and cannot recommend a specific brand, we can provide some general guidance based on industry standards. Most professionals now recommend using two layers of moisture protection behind thin brick veneer. This can include:

  • Two layers of building paper.
  • A combination of one roll-on applied membrane and one sheet-applied layer.
  • Pre-bonded 2-ply papers, which unroll together for easier installation.

It’s important to note that brick and mortar are not waterproof—your moisture barrier is the critical line of defense against water intrusion. For this reason, we strongly advise consulting your project architect or building envelope consultant to select the appropriate system.

For moisture control accessories offered through Brick It, click here.

Why Do the Panels Have Rectangular Holes and What Are They For?

The rectangular holes in our panels serve two important functions:

  • Water Drainage – Certain holes are specifically designed to allow moisture to escape from behind the brick veneer, helping to prevent water accumulation and potential damage.
  • Oil Canning Control – Other holes are strategically placed to help bridge and minimize oil canning, a visual distortion that can occur in flat metal surfaces.

During product development and testing, we discovered that round holes are less effective at drainage, as water tends to flow around them, especially when punched from the back, which creates a subtle burr that deflects water. To address this, we intentionally designed rectangular holes and adjusted the punch direction, improving both drainage and performance.

What Is the Continuous Insulation (CI) System?

Our Continuous Insulation (CI) System is a patented solution designed to meet modern energy code requirements by integrating extruded polystyrene insulation directly into the wall assembly. This system creates a complete thermal break between the interior and exterior of the building, significantly improving energy efficiency and reducing thermal bridging.

It’s an ideal choice for projects prioritizing performance, code compliance, and long-term energy savings.

What Is a Typical Application for the CI System?

The CI (Continuous Insulation) System is most commonly used in commercial construction, particularly on walls built with steel studs and gypsum sheathing. It’s ideal for projects requiring improved thermal performance while maintaining the durability and aesthetics of thin brick veneer.

Why Can’t I Just Fasten the DMG or MCS Panel Directly to the Stud Through the Foam Using Longer Screws?

Foam insulation has no structural value, and fastening through it does not provide a secure or code-compliant attachment. If you attempt to anchor the DMG or MCS panel directly to the studs through the foam, you would essentially be cantilevering the system by the foam's thickness, creating an unsupported gap between the panel and the structural substrate.

This approach compromises stability and may result in failure over time. To date, we have not encountered an engineer who would approve such a method. For a secure and properly engineered installation, the panel system must be anchored directly to a solid structural surface, such as strapping, sheathing, or framing, not through foam alone.

How Strong Is the CI System? How Much Weight Can It Support?

The CI System is engineered for strength and durability. When installed using our structural Batten Plates and specialized screws, it can support approximately 450 lbs per square foot in a worst-case scenario. In more typical installations—without additional strapping—the system can support up to 650 lbs per square foot.

For reference, a standard Brick It system installed over Batten Plates typically weighs around 7 lbs per square foot, which is well within the system’s load-bearing capacity.

These performance figures are based on internal testing and reflect a conservative safety margin for most building conditions.

How Do I Install the Batten Plate Into the Foam? Does the Foam Need to Be Notched?

If you purchase the foam insulation from us, it will come pre-notched every 16" on center to accommodate Batten Plate installation. To install, simply press the Batten Plate into the notched channel. If needed, you can gently tap it into place using a rubber mallet for easier alignment.

This pre-notched feature saves time on-site and ensures proper placement for secure attachment.

Do I Need to Frame My Wall in a Special Way to Install the Continuous Insulation (CI) System?

While special framing is not required, we recommend adding horizontal strapping (every 16" on center) to the wall to simplify installation and ensure consistent fastening. This can be particularly helpful when installing Batten Plates.

To minimize added cost, consider applying strapping specifically at inside and outside corners, where secure attachment is most critical. This targeted reinforcement will help ensure a smooth and durable installation of the CI system.

How Does the Metal Grid System 〈DMD or MCS〉 Compare to Conventional Installation Methods?

Conventional thin brick installation systems are generally slower and more labor-intensive. On average, a skilled installer using a conventional system can set approximately 250 bricks per day. In contrast, the same installer can install around 1,200 bricks per day using one of our metal panel systems (DMD or MCS), making them significantly more efficient.

Thin-set systems are sometimes used for small interior applications—such as kitchen backsplashes or concrete stoops—typically up to 100 square feet in size. Thick-set systems, while slightly lower in material cost, require extensive labor and are rarely used due to their higher total project cost.

Our metal grid systems offer a modern, cost-effective, and time-saving alternative to traditional methods—ideal for both commercial and residential applications.

How Far Will the Brick Project Off the Existing Wall When Using the CI System?

The metal panel component of the CI System is extremely thin—approximately 0.016"—and does not significantly contribute to the overall wall thickness. To determine the full projection of the system from the existing wall, you’ll need to add the thickness of the following components:

The thin brick (dimensions available on each product page under the Shapes & Sizes tab)
Drainage Matt
Insulation
Any additional layers specified in your wall assembly

For accurate planning, it's best to reference each element in your project specification and sum its individual thicknesses.

How Do Thermal Panel Movements Affect Installation?

When installing thin brick panel systems, it is important to allow for thermal expansion and contraction by leaving approximately a 1/4" gap between panels. Based on over 30 years of industry experience, we have not observed issues related to thermal movement when panels are installed correctly. For additional flexibility, we recommend using our hybrid thin brick adhesive. Once cured, it remains permanently flexible and does not harden, accommodating slight movements without compromising bond integrity.

Can I hang pictures, awnings, or attach fixtures to thin brick veneer?

Thin brick veneer is non-structural and not designed to support loads. We generally do not recommend fastening directly into the veneer. Instead, anchor fixtures to the underlying wall structure before applying the veneer.

Best Practices:

  • Plan in advance: install backing or supports (e.g., blocking or junction boxes) behind the veneer during rough-in
  • For items like sconces, it's acceptable to mount them on a junction box that is securely fastened to the wall
  • Ensure all penetrations are properly sealed to maintain water-tightness
  • For heavier items such as awnings or shelves, always consult a structural professional and coordinate mounting details before veneer installation.

How does wall deflection affect thin brick veneer installations?

For masonry or concrete substrates, wall deflection is typically not a concern, since the substrate and veneer have similar stiffness. However, when installing thin brick over wood or steel stud framing, deflection must be carefully controlled due to the difference in stiffness between the veneer and the frame.

Code Guidelines:

  • The International Building Code (IBC) limits stud wall deflection to L/240 when rigid finishes like thin brick are applied. 
  • For interior adhered veneer supported by wood floors, vertical floor deflection is limited to L/600.
  • A more conservative L/360 limit is recommended to minimize cracking and prevent veneer separation when using stud framing.
  • Proper structural design and framing practices are essential for ensuring a durable, long-lasting veneer installation, especially over flexible substrates.

Is a water-resistive barrier (WRB) and drainage system required behind thin brick veneer?

Yes. Both the International Residential Code (IRC) and the International Building Code (IBC) require exterior walls to include:
A water-resistive barrier (WRB)
A means of drainage behind the veneer, with limited exceptions

General Requirements:
WRB must be installed over sheathing or studs in framed wall assemblies
Assemblies tested to ASTM E331 for wind-driven rain resistance may also be exempt

Material Standards:
Acceptable WRB: One layer of No. 15 asphalt felt (ASTM D226, Type I) or other approved material
Over wood-based sheathing:
Use two layers of vapor-permeable WRB (equivalent to Grade D paper), or
A single high-performance WRB (60-minute Grade D equivalent) separated from the veneer by a drainage space or non-absorbent layer

Means of Drainage:
While code does not prescribe exact materials, products such as drainage mats are commonly used and preferred
Brick It’s MCS and CI systems incorporate designed drainage solutions that meet these requirements

WRBs are not required for interior applications, but may still be helpful in preventing moisture damage during installation.
For full compliance, consult your local building codes or refer to the IBC/IRC.

Where and how should flashing and weep screeds be installed in thin brick veneer systems?

Flashing collects moisture that enters the veneer system and channels it out through weeps. Building codes mandate flashing and weep locations to ensure proper drainage and prevent moisture damage.

Required Locations:

  • Below the first course, above the final grade (IRC requires flashing or weep screed to extend 1 in. [25 mm] below the foundation plate over stud walls)
  • At points of support like shelf angles, lintels, and structural floors
  • At wall/roof intersections
  • Around all window and door openings (head, jambs, and sills)
  • Where masonry meets frame/stucco walls (e.g., chimneys)
  • Under copings, sills, and terminations
  • Where decks, porches, or stairs connect to framed walls

    Installation Details:
  • The first brick course should sit directly above flashing or screed, without a mortar joint, to facilitate drainage
  • Flashing must extend to or beyond the wall face, with the back flange turned up ≥ 3½ in. (89 mm)
  • The water-resistive barrier (WRB) should lap over the flashing
  • In two-layer WRB assemblies over wood sheathing, flashing should be placed between the layers
  • A drip edge or weep screed is recommended if flashing is UV-sensitive
  • Without a drip edge, flashing should be cut flush with the wall face

What are the clearance requirements for installing thin brick veneer near grade or paving?

According to the International Residential Code (IRC) and International Building Code (IBC), exterior thin brick veneer over stud walls must maintain minimum clearances for durability and moisture protection:

  • 4 inches (102 mm) above finished grade
  • 2 inches (51 mm) above paved surfaces
  • ½ inch (12 mm) above exterior walking surfaces supported by the same foundation
  • Thin brick must also extend at least 1 inch (25 mm) below the top of the concrete or masonry foundation wall

    These requirements help prevent moisture damage and ensure long-term performance. Always verify with local building codes or your project’s design professional for compliance.

Why are movement joints important in thin brick veneer systems?

Thin brick veneers can experience differential movement as bricks expand and substrates shrink. To avoid cracking or system failure, properly placed movement joints are critical. These joints allow for natural expansion, contraction, and structural movement.

Placement Guidelines:

  • Maximum spacing: 18 feet (5.5 m) vertically or horizontally
  • Maximum area between joints: 144 sq. ft. (13.4 m²)
  • Preferably square zones with a maximum 2½:1 length-to-height ratio
  • Align joints with substrate joints when applied over concrete or masonry
  • On framed walls, veneer joints don’t need to align with sheathing joints

    Construction Notes:
  • Joints must extend fully through the veneer to the substrate
  • Use a compressible filler during mortar placement to keep joints clear
  • Apply backer rod and sealant at the surface to block moisture
  • Minimum joint width: ⅜ inch (10 mm)
  • Mesh or lath reinforcement should stop at joints and not bridge across

    Proper movement joint design and execution are essential for system longevity and should follow project-specific architectural and engineering requirements.

What is a Batten Plate?

A Batten Plate is a structural, 16-gauge galvanized steel L-shaped bracket designed with pre-punched screw holes spaced 16 inches on center. When installed with specialty fasteners, it provides a secure mounting surface for Brick It Metal Grids, lath for Thickset systems, cement stucco, and other siding or cladding materials.

For more information on Batten Plate applications, click here.

Can the system be used to span between a plywood substrate and a concrete foundation?

Technically, installations over plywood and concrete should be treated as two separate systems, divided by a properly placed caulk joint to allow for differential movement. In residential or smaller-scale applications, some customers choose to take an educated risk by treating the area as a single installation — omitting the caulk joint for aesthetic reasons. While this approach is common, it is done at the customer’s discretion. Please note that Brick It cannot assume responsibility for any resulting issues, even though the risk of failure may be minimal.

Thick set System

I Was Installing Thin Brick and Now I Have Some Cement Smears on the Face. How Do I Clean It Off?

When installed cleanly and carefully, your thin brick veneer should require little to no cleaning. However, if you notice cement smears or residue, some bricks may benefit from a light rinse using a mild-strength cleaning solution.

Here are a few important tips:

  • Always follow the cleaning product manufacturer’s instructions carefully.
  • We offer several cleaning solutions that are compatible with thin brick surfaces.
  • For more advanced guidance, we recommend visiting www.prosoco.com, a trusted industry leader in masonry cleaning products.

Important Caution:
Before applying any chemical cleaner to your actual project, test it on a sample panel or a small, inconspicuous area. Many cleaning products are irreversible and may affect the appearance of the brick if not used properly.

What Type of Contractors Install Thin Brick?

The type of contractor best suited for your project will depend on its scope and setting. The following professionals are commonly capable of installing thin brick panel systems:

  • Stucco Contractors
  • Masons
  • Carpenters
  • Tile Setters
  • Exterior Cladding or Façade Specialists – Particularly for commercial or large-scale exterior applications
  • Landscapers, Plumbers, Electricians, and Painters – Often take on small-scale or interior installations

Regardless of trade, it’s important that the installer is detail-oriented, follows our installation guidelines, and is comfortable working with panel systems and masonry materials.

What Tools Are Required to Install Thin Brick?

Most thin brick installations require only basic masonry and tile tools, such as a trowel, mortar bag, level, jointing tool, and a saw or splitter for cutting bricks.

To make things even easier, our System Configurator displays the recommended tools for each specific step of your installation, based on your selected wall assembly and system components. We encourage you to use the configurator when quoting your project to ensure you have everything you need, including the correct tools and accessories.

What Do I Use to Fasten the Metal Grid Panel to the Wall?

We recommend using non-corrosive, preferably ribbed fasteners that provide sufficient penetration to securely anchor the metal grid panel to the substrate. The correct type of fastener will depend on the wall material (e.g., wood, steel, concrete, or masonry) and the specific system being installed.

Using the right fasteners is critical to ensure the long-term performance and stability of your thin brick installation.

You can view our recommended fasteners and purchase options by clicking here.

How Do I Point or Grout Thin Brick?

Follow these steps to properly mix and apply mortar for thin brick joints:

  • Mixing the Mortar:
    • Empty the entire contents of the 40 lb Brick It mortar mix into a 5-gallon bucket.
    • If you've ordered a colored mortar, add the full contents of the accompanying 1.5 lb colorant pack to the same bucket.
    • Slowly add clean, cold water while mixing with a 1/2" drill and mortar paddle at low speed (450–550 RPM) until the mixture reaches a smooth, workable consistency.
    • The mortar is properly mixed when it flows easily from a mortar bag.
  • Application:
    • Load the mortar into a mortar bag and apply it to the horizontal joints first, followed by the vertical joints.
    • Always overfill joints slightly to ensure there are no air pockets or voids.
  • Tooling the Joints:
    • Begin checking mortar firmness every 3–5 minutes. Once it reaches a firm but workable consistency, it's ready for tooling.
    • Use the joint tool provided in your kit to strike the vertical joints first, then the horizontal ones.
    • Hold the tool at a 45° angle and strike the joint to compress and seal the mortar against the brick edges.
    • Maintain no more than 1/8” recess from the brick face for proper finish.
    • The result will be a concave joint finish. Fill any visible voids as needed.
  • Temperature Warning:
    • Do not apply mortar when daytime or nighttime temperatures are expected to fall below 40°F, as this can compromise the curing process.

Can I Use a Sponge to Finish the Joints Like a Tile Installer Would?

We do not recommend using a sponge-finish technique for brick joints, as it is commonly done with tile. Unlike glazed tile, most brick surfaces are porous and textured, making it difficult to clean mortar off the face without leaving permanent stains or residue.

That said, if a slightly smeared or weathered appearance is part of your intended aesthetic, this technique might help achieve that look. In any case, we strongly advise testing your method on a sample panel before applying it to the main wall.

What’s the Purpose of the Drainage Mat?

The drainage mat plays a critical role in managing moisture behind thin brick veneer. Made from high-impact materials, it allows for the rapid exit of water that brick naturally absorbs, promoting continuous airflow between the veneer and the structural wall. This helps prevent moisture buildup, mold, and long-term damage to the building envelope.

Which Moisture Barrier Should I Use?

Although we are not a manufacturer of moisture barriers and cannot recommend a specific brand, we can provide some general guidance based on industry standards. Most professionals now recommend using two layers of moisture protection behind thin brick veneer. This can include:

  • Two layers of building paper.
  • A combination of one roll-on applied membrane and one sheet-applied layer.
  • Pre-bonded 2-ply papers, which unroll together for easier installation.

It’s important to note that brick and mortar are not waterproof—your moisture barrier is the critical line of defense against water intrusion. For this reason, we strongly advise consulting your project architect or building envelope consultant to select the appropriate system.

For moisture control accessories offered through Brick It, click here.

How Does the Metal Grid System 〈DMD or MCS〉 Compare to Conventional Installation Methods?

Conventional thin brick installation systems are generally slower and more labor-intensive. On average, a skilled installer using a conventional system can set approximately 250 bricks per day. In contrast, the same installer can install around 1,200 bricks per day using one of our metal panel systems (DMD or MCS), making them significantly more efficient.

Thin-set systems are sometimes used for small interior applications—such as kitchen backsplashes or concrete stoops—typically up to 100 square feet in size. Thick-set systems, while slightly lower in material cost, require extensive labor and are rarely used due to their higher total project cost.

Our metal grid systems offer a modern, cost-effective, and time-saving alternative to traditional methods—ideal for both commercial and residential applications.

Can I hang pictures, awnings, or attach fixtures to thin brick veneer?

Thin brick veneer is non-structural and not designed to support loads. We generally do not recommend fastening directly into the veneer. Instead, anchor fixtures to the underlying wall structure before applying the veneer.

Best Practices:

  • Plan in advance: install backing or supports (e.g., blocking or junction boxes) behind the veneer during rough-in
  • For items like sconces, it's acceptable to mount them on a junction box that is securely fastened to the wall
  • Ensure all penetrations are properly sealed to maintain water-tightness
  • For heavier items such as awnings or shelves, always consult a structural professional and coordinate mounting details before veneer installation.

How does wall deflection affect thin brick veneer installations?

For masonry or concrete substrates, wall deflection is typically not a concern, since the substrate and veneer have similar stiffness. However, when installing thin brick over wood or steel stud framing, deflection must be carefully controlled due to the difference in stiffness between the veneer and the frame.

Code Guidelines:

  • The International Building Code (IBC) limits stud wall deflection to L/240 when rigid finishes like thin brick are applied. 
  • For interior adhered veneer supported by wood floors, vertical floor deflection is limited to L/600.
  • A more conservative L/360 limit is recommended to minimize cracking and prevent veneer separation when using stud framing.
  • Proper structural design and framing practices are essential for ensuring a durable, long-lasting veneer installation, especially over flexible substrates.

Is a water-resistive barrier (WRB) and drainage system required behind thin brick veneer?

Yes. Both the International Residential Code (IRC) and the International Building Code (IBC) require exterior walls to include:
A water-resistive barrier (WRB)
A means of drainage behind the veneer, with limited exceptions

General Requirements:
WRB must be installed over sheathing or studs in framed wall assemblies
Assemblies tested to ASTM E331 for wind-driven rain resistance may also be exempt

Material Standards:
Acceptable WRB: One layer of No. 15 asphalt felt (ASTM D226, Type I) or other approved material
Over wood-based sheathing:
Use two layers of vapor-permeable WRB (equivalent to Grade D paper), or
A single high-performance WRB (60-minute Grade D equivalent) separated from the veneer by a drainage space or non-absorbent layer

Means of Drainage:
While code does not prescribe exact materials, products such as drainage mats are commonly used and preferred
Brick It’s MCS and CI systems incorporate designed drainage solutions that meet these requirements

WRBs are not required for interior applications, but may still be helpful in preventing moisture damage during installation.
For full compliance, consult your local building codes or refer to the IBC/IRC.

Where and how should flashing and weep screeds be installed in thin brick veneer systems?

Flashing collects moisture that enters the veneer system and channels it out through weeps. Building codes mandate flashing and weep locations to ensure proper drainage and prevent moisture damage.

Required Locations:

  • Below the first course, above the final grade (IRC requires flashing or weep screed to extend 1 in. [25 mm] below the foundation plate over stud walls)
  • At points of support like shelf angles, lintels, and structural floors
  • At wall/roof intersections
  • Around all window and door openings (head, jambs, and sills)
  • Where masonry meets frame/stucco walls (e.g., chimneys)
  • Under copings, sills, and terminations
  • Where decks, porches, or stairs connect to framed walls

    Installation Details:
  • The first brick course should sit directly above flashing or screed, without a mortar joint, to facilitate drainage
  • Flashing must extend to or beyond the wall face, with the back flange turned up ≥ 3½ in. (89 mm)
  • The water-resistive barrier (WRB) should lap over the flashing
  • In two-layer WRB assemblies over wood sheathing, flashing should be placed between the layers
  • A drip edge or weep screed is recommended if flashing is UV-sensitive
  • Without a drip edge, flashing should be cut flush with the wall face

What are the clearance requirements for installing thin brick veneer near grade or paving?

According to the International Residential Code (IRC) and International Building Code (IBC), exterior thin brick veneer over stud walls must maintain minimum clearances for durability and moisture protection:

  • 4 inches (102 mm) above finished grade
  • 2 inches (51 mm) above paved surfaces
  • ½ inch (12 mm) above exterior walking surfaces supported by the same foundation
  • Thin brick must also extend at least 1 inch (25 mm) below the top of the concrete or masonry foundation wall

    These requirements help prevent moisture damage and ensure long-term performance. Always verify with local building codes or your project’s design professional for compliance.

Why are movement joints important in thin brick veneer systems?

Thin brick veneers can experience differential movement as bricks expand and substrates shrink. To avoid cracking or system failure, properly placed movement joints are critical. These joints allow for natural expansion, contraction, and structural movement.

Placement Guidelines:

  • Maximum spacing: 18 feet (5.5 m) vertically or horizontally
  • Maximum area between joints: 144 sq. ft. (13.4 m²)
  • Preferably square zones with a maximum 2½:1 length-to-height ratio
  • Align joints with substrate joints when applied over concrete or masonry
  • On framed walls, veneer joints don’t need to align with sheathing joints

    Construction Notes:
  • Joints must extend fully through the veneer to the substrate
  • Use a compressible filler during mortar placement to keep joints clear
  • Apply backer rod and sealant at the surface to block moisture
  • Minimum joint width: ⅜ inch (10 mm)
  • Mesh or lath reinforcement should stop at joints and not bridge across

    Proper movement joint design and execution are essential for system longevity and should follow project-specific architectural and engineering requirements.

Can the system be used to span between a plywood substrate and a concrete foundation?

Technically, installations over plywood and concrete should be treated as two separate systems, divided by a properly placed caulk joint to allow for differential movement. In residential or smaller-scale applications, some customers choose to take an educated risk by treating the area as a single installation — omitting the caulk joint for aesthetic reasons. While this approach is common, it is done at the customer’s discretion. Please note that Brick It cannot assume responsibility for any resulting issues, even though the risk of failure may be minimal.

Thin set System

I Was Installing Thin Brick and Now I Have Some Cement Smears on the Face. How Do I Clean It Off?

When installed cleanly and carefully, your thin brick veneer should require little to no cleaning. However, if you notice cement smears or residue, some bricks may benefit from a light rinse using a mild-strength cleaning solution.

Here are a few important tips:

  • Always follow the cleaning product manufacturer’s instructions carefully.
  • We offer several cleaning solutions that are compatible with thin brick surfaces.
  • For more advanced guidance, we recommend visiting www.prosoco.com, a trusted industry leader in masonry cleaning products.

Important Caution:
Before applying any chemical cleaner to your actual project, test it on a sample panel or a small, inconspicuous area. Many cleaning products are irreversible and may affect the appearance of the brick if not used properly.

What Type of Contractors Install Thin Brick?

The type of contractor best suited for your project will depend on its scope and setting. The following professionals are commonly capable of installing thin brick panel systems:

  • Stucco Contractors
  • Masons
  • Carpenters
  • Tile Setters
  • Exterior Cladding or Façade Specialists – Particularly for commercial or large-scale exterior applications
  • Landscapers, Plumbers, Electricians, and Painters – Often take on small-scale or interior installations

Regardless of trade, it’s important that the installer is detail-oriented, follows our installation guidelines, and is comfortable working with panel systems and masonry materials.

What Tools Are Required to Install Thin Brick?

Most thin brick installations require only basic masonry and tile tools, such as a trowel, mortar bag, level, jointing tool, and a saw or splitter for cutting bricks.

To make things even easier, our System Configurator displays the recommended tools for each specific step of your installation, based on your selected wall assembly and system components. We encourage you to use the configurator when quoting your project to ensure you have everything you need, including the correct tools and accessories.

What Do I Use to Fasten the Metal Grid Panel to the Wall?

We recommend using non-corrosive, preferably ribbed fasteners that provide sufficient penetration to securely anchor the metal grid panel to the substrate. The correct type of fastener will depend on the wall material (e.g., wood, steel, concrete, or masonry) and the specific system being installed.

Using the right fasteners is critical to ensure the long-term performance and stability of your thin brick installation.

You can view our recommended fasteners and purchase options by clicking here.

How Do I Point or Grout Thin Brick?

Follow these steps to properly mix and apply mortar for thin brick joints:

  • Mixing the Mortar:
    • Empty the entire contents of the 40 lb Brick It mortar mix into a 5-gallon bucket.
    • If you've ordered a colored mortar, add the full contents of the accompanying 1.5 lb colorant pack to the same bucket.
    • Slowly add clean, cold water while mixing with a 1/2" drill and mortar paddle at low speed (450–550 RPM) until the mixture reaches a smooth, workable consistency.
    • The mortar is properly mixed when it flows easily from a mortar bag.
  • Application:
    • Load the mortar into a mortar bag and apply it to the horizontal joints first, followed by the vertical joints.
    • Always overfill joints slightly to ensure there are no air pockets or voids.
  • Tooling the Joints:
    • Begin checking mortar firmness every 3–5 minutes. Once it reaches a firm but workable consistency, it's ready for tooling.
    • Use the joint tool provided in your kit to strike the vertical joints first, then the horizontal ones.
    • Hold the tool at a 45° angle and strike the joint to compress and seal the mortar against the brick edges.
    • Maintain no more than 1/8” recess from the brick face for proper finish.
    • The result will be a concave joint finish. Fill any visible voids as needed.
  • Temperature Warning:
    • Do not apply mortar when daytime or nighttime temperatures are expected to fall below 40°F, as this can compromise the curing process.

Can I Use a Sponge to Finish the Joints Like a Tile Installer Would?

We do not recommend using a sponge-finish technique for brick joints, as it is commonly done with tile. Unlike glazed tile, most brick surfaces are porous and textured, making it difficult to clean mortar off the face without leaving permanent stains or residue.

That said, if a slightly smeared or weathered appearance is part of your intended aesthetic, this technique might help achieve that look. In any case, we strongly advise testing your method on a sample panel before applying it to the main wall.

Which Moisture Barrier Should I Use?

Although we are not a manufacturer of moisture barriers and cannot recommend a specific brand, we can provide some general guidance based on industry standards. Most professionals now recommend using two layers of moisture protection behind thin brick veneer. This can include:

  • Two layers of building paper.
  • A combination of one roll-on applied membrane and one sheet-applied layer.
  • Pre-bonded 2-ply papers, which unroll together for easier installation.

It’s important to note that brick and mortar are not waterproof—your moisture barrier is the critical line of defense against water intrusion. For this reason, we strongly advise consulting your project architect or building envelope consultant to select the appropriate system.

For moisture control accessories offered through Brick It, click here.

How Does the Metal Grid System 〈DMD or MCS〉 Compare to Conventional Installation Methods?

Conventional thin brick installation systems are generally slower and more labor-intensive. On average, a skilled installer using a conventional system can set approximately 250 bricks per day. In contrast, the same installer can install around 1,200 bricks per day using one of our metal panel systems (DMD or MCS), making them significantly more efficient.

Thin-set systems are sometimes used for small interior applications—such as kitchen backsplashes or concrete stoops—typically up to 100 square feet in size. Thick-set systems, while slightly lower in material cost, require extensive labor and are rarely used due to their higher total project cost.

Our metal grid systems offer a modern, cost-effective, and time-saving alternative to traditional methods—ideal for both commercial and residential applications.

Can I hang pictures, awnings, or attach fixtures to thin brick veneer?

Thin brick veneer is non-structural and not designed to support loads. We generally do not recommend fastening directly into the veneer. Instead, anchor fixtures to the underlying wall structure before applying the veneer.

Best Practices:

  • Plan in advance: install backing or supports (e.g., blocking or junction boxes) behind the veneer during rough-in
  • For items like sconces, it's acceptable to mount them on a junction box that is securely fastened to the wall
  • Ensure all penetrations are properly sealed to maintain water-tightness
  • For heavier items such as awnings or shelves, always consult a structural professional and coordinate mounting details before veneer installation.

Can thin brick be used as flooring on an exterior patio exposed to snow?

Yes, many of our thin bricks can be installed on exterior patios exposed to snow and weather. However, performance and appearance may vary depending on the brick type and installation method.

Brick Selection:

  • Bricks in our Floor Brick category, especially wire-cut or tumbled options, are generally suitable for exterior use. Some bricks may age or weather differently, which can add a desired aesthetic for certain clients.

Installation Guidelines:

  • Install over a concrete slab using a thin-set method (a non-proprietary tile installation technique)
  • Do not use standard tile grouting methods — bricks typically do not clean as easily as tile and improper grouting may lead to poor results
  • Always test your process on a sample panel before grouting the main area to confirm the desired finish and cleanability

For best results, follow industry standards and consult a qualified installer familiar with exterior thin brick applications.

How does wall deflection affect thin brick veneer installations?

For masonry or concrete substrates, wall deflection is typically not a concern, since the substrate and veneer have similar stiffness. However, when installing thin brick over wood or steel stud framing, deflection must be carefully controlled due to the difference in stiffness between the veneer and the frame.

Code Guidelines:

  • The International Building Code (IBC) limits stud wall deflection to L/240 when rigid finishes like thin brick are applied. 
  • For interior adhered veneer supported by wood floors, vertical floor deflection is limited to L/600.
  • A more conservative L/360 limit is recommended to minimize cracking and prevent veneer separation when using stud framing.
  • Proper structural design and framing practices are essential for ensuring a durable, long-lasting veneer installation, especially over flexible substrates.

Is a water-resistive barrier (WRB) and drainage system required behind thin brick veneer?

Yes. Both the International Residential Code (IRC) and the International Building Code (IBC) require exterior walls to include:
A water-resistive barrier (WRB)
A means of drainage behind the veneer, with limited exceptions

General Requirements:
WRB must be installed over sheathing or studs in framed wall assemblies
Assemblies tested to ASTM E331 for wind-driven rain resistance may also be exempt

Material Standards:
Acceptable WRB: One layer of No. 15 asphalt felt (ASTM D226, Type I) or other approved material
Over wood-based sheathing:
Use two layers of vapor-permeable WRB (equivalent to Grade D paper), or
A single high-performance WRB (60-minute Grade D equivalent) separated from the veneer by a drainage space or non-absorbent layer

Means of Drainage:
While code does not prescribe exact materials, products such as drainage mats are commonly used and preferred
Brick It’s MCS and CI systems incorporate designed drainage solutions that meet these requirements

WRBs are not required for interior applications, but may still be helpful in preventing moisture damage during installation.
For full compliance, consult your local building codes or refer to the IBC/IRC.

Where and how should flashing and weep screeds be installed in thin brick veneer systems?

Flashing collects moisture that enters the veneer system and channels it out through weeps. Building codes mandate flashing and weep locations to ensure proper drainage and prevent moisture damage.

Required Locations:

  • Below the first course, above the final grade (IRC requires flashing or weep screed to extend 1 in. [25 mm] below the foundation plate over stud walls)
  • At points of support like shelf angles, lintels, and structural floors
  • At wall/roof intersections
  • Around all window and door openings (head, jambs, and sills)
  • Where masonry meets frame/stucco walls (e.g., chimneys)
  • Under copings, sills, and terminations
  • Where decks, porches, or stairs connect to framed walls

    Installation Details:
  • The first brick course should sit directly above flashing or screed, without a mortar joint, to facilitate drainage
  • Flashing must extend to or beyond the wall face, with the back flange turned up ≥ 3½ in. (89 mm)
  • The water-resistive barrier (WRB) should lap over the flashing
  • In two-layer WRB assemblies over wood sheathing, flashing should be placed between the layers
  • A drip edge or weep screed is recommended if flashing is UV-sensitive
  • Without a drip edge, flashing should be cut flush with the wall face

What are the clearance requirements for installing thin brick veneer near grade or paving?

According to the International Residential Code (IRC) and International Building Code (IBC), exterior thin brick veneer over stud walls must maintain minimum clearances for durability and moisture protection:

  • 4 inches (102 mm) above finished grade
  • 2 inches (51 mm) above paved surfaces
  • ½ inch (12 mm) above exterior walking surfaces supported by the same foundation
  • Thin brick must also extend at least 1 inch (25 mm) below the top of the concrete or masonry foundation wall

    These requirements help prevent moisture damage and ensure long-term performance. Always verify with local building codes or your project’s design professional for compliance.

Why are movement joints important in thin brick veneer systems?

Thin brick veneers can experience differential movement as bricks expand and substrates shrink. To avoid cracking or system failure, properly placed movement joints are critical. These joints allow for natural expansion, contraction, and structural movement.

Placement Guidelines:

  • Maximum spacing: 18 feet (5.5 m) vertically or horizontally
  • Maximum area between joints: 144 sq. ft. (13.4 m²)
  • Preferably square zones with a maximum 2½:1 length-to-height ratio
  • Align joints with substrate joints when applied over concrete or masonry
  • On framed walls, veneer joints don’t need to align with sheathing joints

    Construction Notes:
  • Joints must extend fully through the veneer to the substrate
  • Use a compressible filler during mortar placement to keep joints clear
  • Apply backer rod and sealant at the surface to block moisture
  • Minimum joint width: ⅜ inch (10 mm)
  • Mesh or lath reinforcement should stop at joints and not bridge across

    Proper movement joint design and execution are essential for system longevity and should follow project-specific architectural and engineering requirements.

Can the system be used to span between a plywood substrate and a concrete foundation?

Technically, installations over plywood and concrete should be treated as two separate systems, divided by a properly placed caulk joint to allow for differential movement. In residential or smaller-scale applications, some customers choose to take an educated risk by treating the area as a single installation — omitting the caulk joint for aesthetic reasons. While this approach is common, it is done at the customer’s discretion. Please note that Brick It cannot assume responsibility for any resulting issues, even though the risk of failure may be minimal.

Any questions so far? We can help.
Any questions so far?
We can help.

If you need help with your order or consult our design experts for advice, do not hesitate to contact us. We're happy to help!